There are so many images, symbols, and icons that capture Filipino culture. But when it comes to Filipinas, one of the dominating figures is the Filipiniana. Through many mediums, from classic paintings to old movies, the traditional garb has mirrored the silent power of Filipinas. The strength that comes from their elegance and grace. That’s why during its resurgence in the past years, we’ve seen it reimagined by Filipino designers in the most classiest sense—in romantic tones and adorned with all sorts of floral embellishments. Rarely do we find it in a different view, something that is dark, edgy, and contemporary. But when we do, it definitely makes one great style moment.
Among the latest to give Filipiniana a new look is Renan Pacson. For his spring 2024 offering, the seasoned designer puts a rebellious twist on the traditional garb, something beyond its ultra-feminine nature. To do that, the designer looked at the revolutionary leader Gabriela Silang and his mother to give power to today’s modern Filipiniana.
“I knew my women are not the Maria Claras, hence, I started with my ideal historical woman that's closer to my design sensibilities. I chose Gabriela to show that women can be on the battlefield, fight, and conquer challenges like most women that surround me, conquering wins after wins,” Renan told Style Weekend. “Gabriela was just the starting idea. The hero piece of the capsule, the maong (denim) jacket, is actually called 'Jovita,' which was named after my mom. I dissected an old Balintawak of my mom that she had for decades and the whole collection kind of rolled out from there.”
Renan’s goal was to give the Filipiniana a more armorial silhouette than dainty. To do that, he used denim for the outer shell of some of his pieces. Adding a Filipino touch to the pieces was his use of patadyong and malong fabrics as lining, with their colorful prints contrasting the workwear vibe of the denim material.
“I wanted to convey that while my women are tough and strong, they are also loving and warm on the inside,” the designer explains “We then finished each piece with visible hand stitching to balance the sturdy fabrics.”
The collection’s Balintawak pieces, however, are also treated almost like battle gear with the inclusion of hardware details and metal snaps and buttons. Often inspired by beautiful and empowered women that surrounded him, the designer envisioned these pieces worn by women in power—bankers, teachers, lawyers, decision-makers, and power brokers, among others.
“I wanted to see Filipiniana in my lens, staying true to my design sensibilities,” he muses. “It's practical and functional. More relaxed and utilitarian, more for working women than galas and soirees.”
With its utilitarian sense, practicality, and story, Renan Pacson’s latest collection is fit for lady bosses of today, whether they are in the boardroom or on the streets.
Renan Pacson’s spring 2024 collection is exclusively available at Jor-el Espina’s boutique located on the second floor of Greenbelt 5 in Makati City.
Photography by Rex Christian Gan Santos
Hair by Nazh Louise Ramos
Makeup by Dyanne Vargas Constantino
Models are Mariah Althea Perez and Kathrina Cudia
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