Pritong Tilapia with Sweet Sampaloc Sauce. (Photo by PINGGOT ZULUETA)

Reinvention perhaps, aptly describes the concept of Gallenera Restaurant. This resto specializes in traditional Filipino fare tweaked with a pinch of international flavor to suit customers’ modern sensibilities.

Gallenera is located beside a coffee shop, near the Entertainment Center of the SM Mall of Asia in Pasay City. Though, the location is quite hidden, the food is worth a visit, not to mention the homey atmosphere reminiscent of the traditional Filipino home as evidenced by a ‘gallenera’ – a bench located on the porch for guests to sit before entering the sala – strategically placed to provide you with a hospitable welcome.

Pinoy fine dining indeed meets international gastronomical twists as reflected in the menu. Take for instance one of its starters: the Pritchon (P 135) or slices of crisp suckling pig on pancakes (or soft pita bread) with chives, wan soy, cucumbers, onion, and leek garnishing.

Such appetizing bites warm up your craving for another traditional Pinoy dish with a different twist – the Triad Seafood Sinigang in Triad flavored soup (P425), a combination of bangus belly, Norwegian salmon steak, and fresh tiger prawns, bathed with native guava-tamarind-pineapple broth mixed with lots of veggies. Its sweet, sour, and rich flavor, balanced by the umami taste of the bayalan makes it a sumptuous match for your steamed rice.

“We are always particular with the taste – providing customers with traditional Pinoy cuisine but with a different twist,” shares Gari Palmani, one of the owners of the restaurant, trained under the auspices of renowned Chef Reggie Aspiras. “Twists come in the presentation of the dishes, the use of international herbs to go with the dishes, and other executions to give it an international flare.”

For example, the Green Chicken Tinola, reflects the usual home-cooked tinola but gets the unique Gallenera flare when Gari, together with partner Ma. Cristina Castillo, also a chef, tried to ‘pesto’ the malunggay and sili leaves to give it an Italian dent. Both these expert chefs can surprise you with unexpected concoctions to produce unique Pinoy nouveaux dishes: Simmered pork liempo cubes in balsamic vinegar broth for Dinuguan with an international appeal or ‘unsizzling Sisig’, a healthier version of the traditional one made with lean pork parts in delectable cream sauce.

It is amazing to eat a sumptuous kare-kare with mixed tender oxtail pieces, tripe, and vegetables in peanut sauce especially if it is blended with chocolate-flavored bagoong. The chocolate lessens the tasty flavor of the paste, giving a subtle flavor for the entire dish.

An order of Pritong Tilapia (P 325), a crispy fried tilapia in a sweet tamarind sauce, and chicken adobo (P 165) stewed and garnished with roasted shallots and garlic, with a serving of bulanglang, a Pampango version of an Ilocano vegetable mix called denengdeng, is a good way to appreciate Pinoy dishes cooked ‘Gallenera style.’ All the dishes are fused well enough with the right mix and fix – giving your palate a clean, resonant flavor of sort, on top of the refreshing, native guava juice it exclusively serves.

Try its luscious desserts which include Pinoy Crème Brulee with Nata de Coco (comprised of pandan-flavored leche flan served with sweetened coco-palm gel) or the Bilo-bilo surprise with flavors of ube halaya, langka, and macapuno, drenched in pureed coconut milk and spurts of guava cream. The sweetness of the desserts is as pleasant as the ‘happy’ anecdotes shared by Gari Palmani to everyone, making the whole Gallenera experience a fixture of true Pinoy hospitality and good food.

Gallenera Restaurant is located at the ground level, 128 Entertainment Mall, SM Mall of Asia, Pasay City. For inquiries, contact 556-5077.