Capesante Fiorentina. (Photo by RUDY LIWANAG)

Christening a restaurant ‘Nicotina’ may have been accidental but it is one surefire way to capture the attention of those who get unbelievably bad-tempered without their dose of nicotine-infused sticks on a given day. Also, the mere mention of the restaurant’s name is enough for either smokers or non-smokers to think of gratuitous servings of tobacco-flavored fare. This, however, isn’t the case when you actually go to Nicotina Garden Pavilion.

While the restaurant’s name apparently came from a variety of tobacco plant growing profusely on the previous owner Richard Tann’s garden, in reality, the trattoria (a dining place boasting of inexpensive meal prices and an informal atmosphere) dishes out notable Italian cuisine against a setting that is very Filipino.

Key interior pieces are seemingly made from rattan and other raw materials indigenous to the country. Wall-bound artworks scattered around the pavilion add color and dimension to the less conspicuous earthy palette that the place dons. One can’t resist its old-school and rustic charm.

But more than its charm and appeal, Nicotina proves just perfect for big bashes, as it can house and seat almost 250 people. Now owned and managed by Fe Aoki and her husband, the trattoria is all decked-out to become one’s ‘venue of choice.’ High ceilinged and with no center posts blocking the way, Nicotina can be converted into an art gallery or into a showroom if and when an event arises.

It is equipped with basic stage systems, theater lighting, concert-ready sound system, and a baby grand piano—ensuring the entertainment of guests while they are eating and conversing with their family and friends. Aoki says, “The place is for all occasions. It is ideal for small and big parties. And we are also flexible in decorating the place if our clients want to. There is also a live band every night playing ‘60s and ‘70s music.”

Of course, not to be missed in Nicotina is its rich Italian menu, complete from antipasti (hot or cold appetizers) to digestivi (digestives or coffee killers such as wine and liquor). Promoting a well-rounded Italian meal structure to Filipinos and a place to dine al fresco in the bustling metro is also why Nicotina still exists since its inception five years ago, shares Aoki.

For starters, the Capesante Fiorentina, baked scallops with garlic and herbs, is just about as appetizing as it should be because of its nutty flavor. Its texture is so crisp that one can actually bite into the crunchy bits of garlic married with the scallops. The Crema de Zucca or pumpkin soup, meanwhile, is a treat that is buttery, creamy, and so hearty you would think you can’t possibly fill your tummy with the main course.

Pasta lovers will revel with Nicotina’s diverse offering of noodles. There are pastas for fish, meat, seafood, and vegetable enthusiasts. The Penne Granchio or tube pasta with crab meat in tomato cream sauce that we sampled is one of the trattoria’s many pasta selections. Drenched in red tomato sauce, the pasta tastes sourer than the usual noodle chow some Filipinos are acquainted with, counterbalancing the supposed sweetness of the thin slices of crab meat. Notwithstanding this, its ample serving more than make up for the dish’s wanting flavor.

For the secondi or main course, the Salmone al Mornay or fried salmon with cheese and mustard sauce is a must-try. Aesthetic-wise, it looks pleasant to the eyes what with the pink of the salmon combined with the yellow of the sauce. Surprisingly, the dish is also agreeable to the palate. Soft and flaky, the salmon is easy to chew; while the full-flavored sauce is something to be excited about.
The half-a-meter four-flavored thin-crust pizza can also be a barkada favorite. It is an ideal ‘pulutan’ partner for booze or for wine. Although the pizzas have minimal toppings, one can’t mistake the aromatic taste of the cheese in every slice.

After a very filling meal, you may want to try Nicotina’s gelato cakes. Our recent trip in the trattoria found us relishing one, a mint gelato wedge, called ‘After Eight,’ sandwiched between two layers of lightly bitter chocolate enlivened with a top layer of crunchy chocolate chips.

With five years in the restaurant and food scene, what can people expect from Nicotina? Well, of late, Nicotina launched its lunch set menu. A set menu of five meals and a drink gives a customer a choice to experience Nicotina’s gustatory delights for a price that wouldn’t rape one’s savings account. And it’s not only the affordable prices or the breathing space that would get you hooked with this seemingly unassuming joint, it’s also the good food, the romantic ambience, and the friendly staff ready to take on your needs, with a smile at that, all the time.

Nicotina Garden Pavilion is located at 110 Williams St., Roxas Blvd., Pasay City. For more information about the restaurant, call 551-7906.