It took some time before I could herd Manila Bulletin’s Practical Chef Lawrence Zafra, Asian specialist Adrian Lim, and brother and sister Buenisimo team Gino and Giannina together for a much anticipated lauriat at Renaissance Hotel’s Jasmine. Adrian Lim, who was a protégé of Jasmine’s Master Chef Choi Wing Ki at the Hyatt, was quite excited at the prospect of a reunion between him and his teacher.

This dinner was to take us one step further, having been introduced to Chef Choi’s techniques with the workshops conducted by Chef Adrian. Many Hong Kong chefs have come and gone from this country. But, I have yet to see the creative passion behind Chef Choi’s delicate yet complex flavors mixed with articulate and skillfull techniques from the other chefs.

We were greeted by Sharon Lim, the very knowledgeable and accommodating manager of the restaurant. Jasmine, as a newly renovated outlet, is impressive and tastefully designed with its posh seats and interiors with chic Chinese art deco pieces. I love the splashes of lacquer red-oranges contrasted by the tones of rich wood that immediately sets the mood for an anticipated meal.

Sharon, who has a selection of 16 different teas, started us out with the Monkey-picked Teh Kuan Yin (This legendary tea was said to have been picked by trained monkeys, this is the reason for its name). The half-fermented tea started working our palates and salivary glands with shades of light chocolate and creamy grains, like oats and barley.

Concurrently, Sharon also started us with a bottle of Osmanthus Flower Wine as our aperitif and to flow through our first dishes. Osmanthus or Kuei Hua is the spring flower that blooms and aromatizes the parks and walkways of China. The luscious, peachy, and fresh plummy aromas were captured in the wine with light madeirized, sherry-like flavors similar to a Spanish amontillado. The fruit and flowery flavors with a hazelnut finish went excellently well with the first dishes of the dinner.

Our first course was marinated duck tongues with celery braised together into a concentrated flavorful broth. The smooth textures of the tongues, with a light chewy bite, contrasted with the partner of shredded jellyfish. Next came flavorful packed slices of Yunnan Ham with its upfront fermented flavors softened with a glaze of honey on top of a steamed bun.

Our Jasmine special combination of dimsum was not to be missed. Chef Choi’s kitchen produces one of the finest and well textured hargao or shrimp dumplings. The juicy and crunchy shrimps are encased in a pristine wrapper. Contrasting this steamed classic is another traditional dimsum of barbecued pork in a very flaky pastry and light dough. The third item on our combi plate was fried battered asohos fish with a sweet sour sauce.

For soup, a long-simmered superior stock from a symphonic mix of pork leg, chicken, ham bone, vegetables, mushrooms, and other personal house secrets, such as Chinese herbs, moistened a huge dumpling filled with crab meat. This was highlighted by the whole crystalline pieces of shark’s fin, with its myriad of crunchy and al dente textures, with the braised, whitened Bamboo pith. Every spoonful of this soup left a rich finish that was meant to be contemplated slowly with its aromas, texture, and flavors.

Our main dishes arrived in succession. As we enjoyed a series of wines we had brought, such as an Aussie sparkling, a German Rivaner whose fresh fermented acidity stood up well to the next courses.
The Roasted Goose had more meat and subtle, delicate flavors than a typical roast duck. The goose’s deglazed juices were poured over the dish.

Our stone fish, having had the poisonous central spine removed, was steamed in soy and rice wine. The firm texture of the pristine white meat lent itself to a cross between fish and lobster with its precious oils showing accuracy of steaming time.

Our wok-baked Sea Mantis in Harbor Style was very familiar to all of us. This dish had Chef Choi Wing Ki’s signature combination of garlic scallions, chilies, and x.o. sauce topped on these flash-fried crustacean slices. The salty and spicy heat married with the petillant acidity of the Rivaner readying us for another flavor experience, which was the meaty Braised Elk or Chicken Mushrooms with Broccolli.

Equal, simple braised cubes of spicy, garlicky tenderloin, stir fried to seal its juices were served. We almost didn’t have room for the stewed rice with assorted meat wrapped in lotus leaves. But, because the tasty flavors had invaded every firm rice grain, we all obliged and ate our individual steamed parcels with lots of gusto.

For dessert, we had Chinese Petit Fours starting with a Valrhona Buchi and a Fried Pumpkin Dumpling stuffed with purple taro filling. Contrasting these hot dessert dumplings was a bowl of Mango Crème. With pomelo, it provided tiny citrus explosions of light refreshing tartness with a sweet richness from the Mango crème.

On the way down, we bumped into the Rennaisance director of Restaurants Javi Berenguer-Testa who invited us for a drink at Cinnabar, a well kept secret among bar habitués in Manila. Hopefully, I have to take Beerfriend’s Toto Erfe to this place to marvel at the bar creations and well selected list of beers, malts, and vodkas.

Javi got me to try a Wasabi Martini, lightly sweet and tart with shades of calamasi, and no nasal sting. Curiously, this was garnished with a smoked salmon sushi. Another one of the must-tries is a Chocolate Chili Martini, but if you are not strong on chilies ask the bartender for a milder version.