Creating a new idiom of contemporary glamour with unique, expressive plays on cut and detailing. (Photo by NOEL PABALATE)

Unveiling his first ever collection at Philippine Fashion Week, New York-based Filipino designer Robin Tomas spins the glamour and allure of the big city into a rich, sensual collection that remarks both the inimitable romance and exquisite rawness of modern urban sensibilities. Unapologetic about his classic-wearable approach, Tomas marries the practicalities of ready-to-wear design with the opulences of couture treatments in a seemingly effortless articulation of contemporary style. From very feminine, flowy cuts to tempered occasions of voluminous play to strong shoulders and sharp tailoring, his is a remarkably well-composed, mature first collection that demonstrates how fashion can be an intelligent, informed, and tactful negotiation of art, market, economy, and trend.

A graduate of the UP College of Fine Arts in ’94 and Parsons School of Design in 2001, Tomas’s main track in fashion had been in menswear. For two and a half years, the designer had worked on men’s apparel with Gap brand Old Navy and then Gap International, until the division was eventually dissolved. He later worked on and off with J. Crew, where he continued in menswear for about two more years.

His recent venture into developing a personal collection invariably reflects his background in retail—best translated, perhaps, in his careful balance of “personal design freedom, pooling right resources, and reaching the right audience.” Inasmuch as he feels he is still developing his own aesthetic and dealing with the freedom of full control, Tomas has nevertheless managed to create a coherent yet visually diverse and ultimately interesting collection that renders, in no simple terms, his impressions and juxtapositions of New York and Central Park—where, he notes, “the city meets the park.”

This reference to an old kind of glamour and romance translates into an edgy-romantic and darkly whimsical collection, alluding to a sexier, stronger impression of femininity. Here, sheer fabrics are more overtly teasing than shy and sweet, and frills and flowy silhouettes create a femme fatale mystique rather than a typically girly feel.

Tomas notably works conventional silhouettes in largely unconventional ways. A bright, form-fitting red cocktail dress employs top-heavy organza flower detail over a V-form neckline, while an A-line dress extends down the back to form a short, flowing train. His play with textures and various fabrics further adds a kind of depth to his pieces. One particularly interesting material is a rubber lace “fabric” created by an artist/sculptor in New York, which Tomas uses in several outfits. Almost resembling fine crochet work, the fabric provided immediate interest in his cropped bustier with puffed sleeves and in a long tent jacket with “grass” beadwork running down the seams. The latter, worn with a long, knit pant detailed with a layer of sheared tulle wrapped around it, was a subtle play of contrasting textures and forms away from the body—made particularly interesting in contrast to the sexier shapes and cuts of the rest of the collection.

Tomas maintains a tidy palette of blacks, metallics, golds, and silvers punctuated by jewel tone accents and occasional bold color statements. Bright amber yellows, celadon greens, and rubys elegantly break away from monochrome, while nevertheless still gracefully keep with the visual narrative of the whole collection.

Lastly, subtle embellishments play a key role in Tomas’s work. Fully embellished black-on-black necklines, or a bridal bustier visually contoured with uniform beadwork provide that delicate touch of couture without ever going overboard. A monochromatic, full-length gown with organza flowers, which gradiates in size and color, is detailed with individually burned “petal” edges, while a floral georgette blouse, which falls below the knee, has a fully beaded yoke draping down back and finished with fringe detail.

Robin Tomas can be reached at 0908-9591448, or via email at robintomas@gmail.com. Visit tomasdesigns.multiply.com for more details.