My first encounter with Pink Pepper left a great mark on my memory. I am always careful about restaurants that have extensive menus, but most of all, those which claim to serve bistro and French food. But this particular restaurant gave me quite a surprise.

A true test was a simple dinner of typical Steak Pommes Frites. This, for me, is so typically French, having worked in an establishment in Paris serving only this. What I got was a decent thin cut of prime rib for P440. My dining companion settled for a pasta Bolognese which turned out to be a tasty, non-sweet meat sauce simmered as a ragu that hinted of red wine and herbs. We had this with a cooling mango iced tea that made this simple lunch quite memorable. Eventually, I had taken the time to go there for dinner and try out the more sophisticated items in their menu.

The menu and wine selections are reasons enough to impress the seasoned restaurant-goer, particularly the bistro fan who likes casual yet upper level cuisine on his plate.

I found out that the chef is Vilma Medina, who for years cooked in France for dignitaries and top corporate people. Romance bloomed for this lady chef there who charmed a top level French executive and married him. Unfortunately, she was widowed and Vilma got back to what she likes doing best which is cooking.

My selections stole the chef’s attention, having chanced upon her in their Morato outlet at the new building on the corner of Scout Borromeo. We started our repast with a hefty salad of foie gras which was shimmering with a glaze of grape reduction and sautéed sliced apples and pears. This partnered well with a bottle of Taittinger champagne which had the right acidity and pettilance to contrast the sweetness and richness of the sauce and foie gras.

The next course was a choice between the escargots and a Brandade de Morue, the brandade immediately became the choice because this classic is hardly served anymore. This provincial Mediterranean dish of mashed potatoes and dried cod was something I had not had in a long time. The champagne surprisingly stood up well to this dish, but we decided to open a Ventisquiero Chardonnay 2006 with buttery and pineapple notes to complement the rich potatoes. The brandade was garnished with streaks of balsamic syrup to give it a play of tanginess and some pink peppercorns for some warmth.

Next was the paella, which was tinted yellow with real saffron and with a good assortment of fresh shellfish on top. This dish showed good crusty bits, but had been mixed by the kitchen staff. The flavors of this paella are on the average, well defined, and use a good stock for flavor. I would have preferred a more intact crust that is unmixed, call it my folly, but I like my crust or soccarat intact.

Our main course was a Boeuf Bourguingon served on top of quennelled mashed potatoes, which was slow cooked with a caramelized onion mirepoix with of course the signature spice of pink peppcorns. The next time I order this dish I will request for more of that sweet caramelized mirepoix of carrots, onions, celery, leeks, and tomato that gives magical flavor to plain braised beef.

To cap this grand lunch was the blueberry cheesecake, which was completely satisfying. But I just had to order something classically French, such as their chocolate mousse which did not disappoint us either. As an ender my espresso came with the traditional brown sugar cube the French munch on in between sips

I’m glad Vilma gave some authenticity to French bistro fare here in Manila after having missed the legendary Au Bon Vivant. It is also with gladness that they didn’t push or try too hard to portray a French image by playing La Vie En Rose over and over as background music, which drives you, as they say in French, “ananas!”