As a fast growing citadel and tourism center with a huge expatriate community, Cebu’s wine scene has become a new haven for aficionados and collectors. Moreover, some of their very good imports hardly ever reach other key cities in Luzon or Mindanao. The mere presence of two top wine appreciation societies, namely the Paris-based Ordre Mondial des Gourmets Degustateurs and the London-based International Wine and Food Society, is proof enough of the exciting wine landscape that is present in this city.

Below are some establishments that are making their mark and carving the palates of this fast-paced community.

Alyssa Gourmet

Located inside Cebu’s Ayala mall, Alyssa Gourmet is one of the original gourmet boutiques specializing in Italian wines. This outlet started with a hit and miss, with huge varieties of vino de tavolas and boutique wines. About seven years ago, they had multiple assortments of varietals from Alto Adige near the German border and Veneto, plus the classic chiantis, valpolicellas and bardolinos.

At present, the choices are trimmed down. Michele Acanfora, the Italian general manager, has kept the classic lines and went with the invasion and rediscovery of ancient Italian grape varietals such as canonau from Sardinia, nero d’ avola from Sicily and primitivo (a type of zinfandel) from Salento.

Their prices are reasonable like the mid-priced proseccos and amarones. However, though a barolo below the one thousand peso price tag is tempting, it may have to be tasted first. I miss a beautiful, long-lived cabernet franc that they imported a long time ago, but I am sure glad they have canonau, which is rare in Manila.

Gustavian Butcher Shop and Deli

Besides being a well-received restaurant deli and an English pub, that serves Guiness on tap and a great variety of beers with hearty fare, the Gustavian (Maria Luisa Road) focuses mainly on French and a small South African selection of wines. Prices range from reasonable to average with the Alsatian Rieslings, gewürztraminers, Cru Bourgeois and satellite appellations as most value for money.

Some curious finds:
• Pfaffenheim Riesling 2008 Medailled’ Or (P 600)
• Pfaffenheim Alsace Gewürtztraminer (P 950)
• Les Tonnes Pouilly Fume (P 1700)
•Chateau d’ Armaillhac 2003 (P 2000)
• Cuvee des Pallieres 2006 Gigondas (P 1100)

Orient Express

Located along Banilad Road, the Orient Express is an Asian restaurant with a wide selection of Asian favorites and Indian staples. They sell inexpensive food but have a very upscale wine list. The reason behind this is due to the French restaurant that stood here before. When the Orient Express’ owners took over, they also took over the former restaurant’s inventory and storage facility.

The best finds are the satellite houses of Bordeaux, many of which are from the year 2000.

Some curious finds:
• Vieux Chateau Gachet 2000 Lalande de Pomerol (P 1840)
• Chateau Belloy Canon Fronsac 2000 (P 1840)
• Chateau Le Trale St. Estephe 2000 (P 1606)
• Chateau Les Trois Fronsac (P 2254)

Marco Polo Lobby Lounge

At the Marco Polo Lobby Lounge in Lahug, Food and Beverage Director Albert Banaag devised a wine buffet where one can do a sampling of wines based on three price ranges. It is very good value for someone who can drink wine and not get palate fatigue, since you can shift from varietal or vineyard to vineyard based on the price range you choose.

Choose from these flights:

Selection I (P 467)
• Sol de Chile Cabernet Sauvignon2006
• Manta Merlot Valle Central 2006
• Terra Vega Merlot 2008

Selection II  (P 604)
• Sta. Rita 120 Sauvignon Blanc                                          
• Sta. Rita 120 Carmenere 2007                                          
• Les Terroirs Merlot
• Vin de Pays D’ Oc                           

Selection III  (P 778)
• Montes Sauvignon Blanc 2008                                         
• Sylvain Fessy Beajolais 2007                                           
• Domaine des Arbouses Fitou Hawequas S.A. 2005
• Hardy’s Nottage Hill Shiraz
• Los Cardos Malbec 2007
• Aprilskloof Red red wine 2005
• Blue Nun Merlot
• Remole Toscana (Sangiovese-Cabernet) 2006
• Mont Gras Chardonnay

Wild About Wines

Located inside Crossroads on Banilad Road (an arcade of Cebu’s premier bars) is a shop owned by Dondi and Corinne Joseph called Wild About Wines. This, I feel, is one of the best-merchandised wine shops in the country, because the husband and wife team behind it must taste and agree on a wine first, before it is sold on their shelf. Dondi, who is president of the International Wine and Food Society’s Cebu branch, shares his passion for discovering wines with good value with his French wife, Corinne. Together they choose wine from the Philippines’ top importers and import their own French and South African Wines.

I saw several good finds (but one can also find these in Manila) such as the New Zealand Spy Valley Gewürztraminer, a Monastrell varietal called Sumiller (personally chosen for Cebu wine aficionado Manny Osmeña as part of his “Manny O” line), the award-winning but light Prahova Feteasca Negra (an ancient Romanian red wine) and the premium German Pradikaat Wines of Robert Weil from Germany.

For equally discriminating palates but want value, they have the second wines of many top vineyards. I looked at the private storage and found Chateaud L’Hospital Graves, La Gabarede Croizet – Bages Pauillac 2004, La Chapella de Lafon Rochet Saint Estephe 2003. These are all below 2000 pesos. I even saw an Upper Sally’s Paddock 2005 Shiraz, Cab France and Merlot blend for below 2500 pesos.

What sets this wine shop truly apart from the rest is their own line of imports, especially the French wines with very catchy names such as the Fat Bastard Merlot 2007. This wine is a juicy, dry, earth and dust medium red with lots of blackfruits on the palate. It is soft with shades of gentian and is an easy drinking wine.

While the Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, also from the Fat Bastard, has the same initial dusty onslaught with maraschino and spicy notes on the finish and nose. My best discovery though is their Laurus Viognier, with a floral, rich, sweet-scented apricot and peachy perfume with shades of green plum and carambola starfruit. It has a creamy mouthfeel with a custardy vanilla-like ending.

Another great discovery is a fabulous sparkling wine called the Fat Bastard Blanc de Blancs. This bubbly is one of the most exciting and vibrant petillant wines that has excited me in years, having definite green and red apples with eau de cologne characters and vanilla custard.

The Laurus Gigondas and Los Bandidos Grenache, both French wines with crazy names, were on the average, quite drinkable with Los Bandidos having good fruit, dusty characters and more balance. The Gigondas however, had a nose of saffron, cumin, tart and cherry flavors. During some playful or rather inebriated or creative instances, I asked Dondi to sit me down and give me a serious tasting of the South African wines, which I felt I needed more convincing about.

Dondi did elicit some oohs and aahs from the tasters, including mine with two wines. The Mooj Plaas Cabernet Franc 2005 was typically dusty with red and green peppers and ripe persimmons. The best of the South Africans though was a Steylter 2005 Vision, which is a stellenbosch and had hints of red peppers, toasted leaves, plums and a faint complexity of herbs and eucalyptus. The complexity did not stop there because we could also find other characters, such as earthy aromas or mushroom flavors that are quite mouth filling. For a dessert wine, I was impressed with a 500 ml. bottle of Muscat de Beaumes de Venise, a gold medal winner that was not cloyingly sweet, but had all the deliciously fruity and spicy properties to try.

Those interested in these Cebu wines can call Dondi Joseph at 0920 9132724, or Jay Labrador at 0918 9241642 here in Manila.