If you think men’s fashion is all about rehashing past trends or tweaking conservative styles, then you haven’t seen modern menswear by new and upcoming designers like Jerome Lorico. At the recently concluded Philippine Fashion Week, Lorico, a nascent name in the industry, showcased a cerebral collection, aptly titled “Stitch,” that explored the body’s process of healing. With slashed sleeves and perforated fabrics, his Holiday 2009 collection mimicked human skin and framework and resulted in wearable pieces of art.

Here, the designer talks about his creative process and the directions menswear is taking in the country:                                      

Manila Bulletin: What is your inspiration for the collection?

The collection is an in-depth study of a concept focusing on the binary oppositions existing between man and his clothes. This transcends the ordinary role of clothing as a means of comfort, but rather empowers them as well to give character by incorporating details that would remind us how intricate our bodies are as we explore the elements of fragility and regeneration.

MB: What aspect of the human body captured your interest?

I was significantly inspired by the ability of the human body to heal and reform after an injury. This is compared to the quality of clothes as something inanimate and sometimes abstract. These opposite polarities resulted in an interesting idea. In a way there is an attempt to switch the qualities of the two composite matter. Giving clothes the ability to enact the behavior of the human anatomy, and thereby posing the mobile character of a human body as a still life.

MB: Is this the main idea behind the intricate details of your clothes?

With this switching of roles, the clothes were considered either human skin, bone, or tissue that present different symbolical phases of healing and regeneration. The wearer, on the other hand, is just a blank canvas for the clothes to have a new identity.

MB: What materials did you use?

Most of the clothes were in gabardine, wool, sheer and light fabrics, and perforated cotton. The look of the collection was tailored yet very relaxed. It was casual but still resonating with streetwear vibe. The idea of the sheer and light fabrics was a reminder of human skin while the perforated cotton was inspired by the idea of gauze and bandage.

MB: What was the mood evoked by the color palette?

The color of the collection was somber and dark, concentrating mainly on black with the stark contrast of white. The idea was to make the whole collection look like a dark and blank canvas that is only given life with its textures and fabric combination.

MB: And the cuts and silhouettes?

The cuts were simple but were given a twist both literally and figuratively by twisting seams on the pants, vest, and jackets which were inspired by twisted ankles and muscles. Some tops were also slashed either on their shoulders and sleeves as if they’re a wound or a cut. There were also some pieces paired with loose, apron-type tops and vest connoting  the idea of peeling skin.

MB: You continue to surprise the market with innovative, avant-garde menswear. What is your design aesthetic?

It is difficult to describe an aesthetic. Because it is, I believe, an evolving concept. It develops and sometimes before we know it, our aesthetic took over our control. This is the reason why some styles are the same, or some trends seem to be a replica of another trend. In a collection, or in every design that I make, I always see to it that there is a story and a strong foundation of inspiration behind it. That is the only way to put an invisible parameter within your creative realm. There are a lot of beautiful clothes but only few are products of beautiful concepts. The real strength and depth of clothes and its design should be deeper than its seams and fabric.

MB: What kind of guy do you see wearing this collection?

This collection is actually for a guy who has a deep sense of character. Someone who can wear a plain shirt and yet can also pull off a piece created with a confusing pattern. The collection is a mix of safe and simple pieces paired with the complex and the detailed. I am actually designing for a simple person who is aware of his complex self.

MB: Are Filipino men that complex dresser?

Before, I considered the classic Pinoy man get-up to be rather like an L.A casual get-up. The loose, old denim jeans, cotton shirt, and sneakers. But today I am happy that we are on the verge of a great age of makeover. Skinny jeans are a huge help. 
 
MB: How do you gauge Philippine menswear today?

The first sign that men in this country are starting to absorb the idea of fashion and its vanities was the success of the skinny jeans and the prevalence of the scarf on every neck of every guy that I see on the street. I know that it is an exaggeration but, come to think of it, in a city like Manila with a 36 to 38 degrees Celcius humidity and temperature, who would expect that scarves would be such a hit? This is a clear sign of a more aware and conscious population when it comes to fashion and clothing. We just need menswear designers who are believers, because out there waiting is an army of followers. And I believe that in the years to come, menswear fashion in this country would continue to evolve and get better. We are on a slow pace, but we are getting there.