Wolfgang Franz Otto Blass

I've had several early encounters with Aussie wine, especially as a curious kid who grew up in a pizzeria where we partners called, Italian Village. We had an array of inexpensive jug wines then such as Yalumba and Mildara, among others that we sold by the carafe.

What changed my perspective and led me to a deeper exploration of Australian wine, was when I first drank a shiraz in a brown bottle with a brown label 27 years ago. This wine, made by Wolf Blass, would become an award-winning and well-rated wine that seemed to be a star among wine magazines for successive years. This luscious, soft, but big, and robust wine suddenly made me a great fan of the bowtied winemaker-Wolf Blass.

Wolfgang Franz Otto Blass was born in 1934, in what used to be East Germany. Although his mother’s family was previously involved in the wine industry, Wolf became a winemaker more out of necessity. It was his driving commitment to get a job, interest in collecting stamps from different countries, and ambition to explore the world that led to his working in vineyards and his qualifications as a wine technician.

At the age of 20, Wolf became the youngest holder of the Kellermeister Diploma or master’s degree in Germany. After working in Champagne and Germany making sparkling wines, Wolf assumed the role of cellar superintendent with the British wine company, Avery. His knowledge and experience in making sparkling wines led to him to opportunities in Venezuela, New Zealand, and Australia.

Not constrained by long winemaking traditions, Wolf was able to experiment with new winemaking and marketing practices, and revolutionized several aspects of the Australian Wine Industry. From 1966, Wolf produced small parcels of his own wine, and in 1969 he purchased a two-hectare site on Bilyara. Wolf discovered that it was the Aboriginal word for “Eaglehawk.” And given the eagle was the national emblem of Germany, he decided that his wine packaging should carry the eagle – a legacy that continues today.

Wolf concentrated on the production of red table wines, despite his background in sparkling wines and that he had never made red wine until he came from Australia. He recognized that red wine, with its increased fruit appeal, would be more attractive to the wine novice than the more acidic white wines. He did of course continue to make white wines, with riesling being his preferred variety.

In 1974, Wolf won Australia’s highest wine award, the Jimmy Watson Trophy from the first vintage he produced on his own. It became a talking point around Australia, particularly  when he repeated the feat in 1975 and 1976. Wolf Blass Wines were placed well and truly on the wine map. Since then he has taken the brand to win more than 3000 awards.

This year is his 75th birthday and an opportunity to reflect and honor the contribution and direction he made in the progression of the Australian wine industry. Through the introduction of pearl and sparkling wines, sexy bottles, innovative winemaking techniques and new styles, Wolf was able to encourage people to drink wines as part of their social occasions.

A recent tasting of the Wolf Blass line proved very nostalgic for me. Here are some of the recent tasting notes.

Wolf Blass EagleHawk Chardonnay. EagleHawk Chardonnay is mid-straw in color. The bouquet has the typical hints of apple-peach characters and subtle oak integration. On the palate, it has medium-weight flavors with a backbone of supporting French oak. The finish is crisp, dry, and refreshing. It is wine that brings out the best in creamy chicken pasta dishes.

Wolf Blass EagleHawk Cabernet Sauvignon. This cabernet sauvignon is medium-bodied, with plummy fruit flavors and a touch of oak and shades of eucalyptus.

Wolf Blass EagleHawk Merlot. This one has an attractive vibrant red color. Its bouquet has ripe cherry aromas, lovely red and purple plum fruit, and subtle sweet oak suggestions without any harshness. The palate has berry flavors throughout, boysenberry and plums, anise and liquorice, strawberries, lightly smoked ham, and tender oak. A plummy finish is present in its complexity.

Wolf Blass Red Label Chardonnay. With tropical fruit aromas, fresh melon, apple and peach flavors, and light straw color, this wine is ideal for the Australian lifestyle. Again, chicken with creamy white wine and mushroom cream sauces are perfect for this wine.

Wolf Blass Red Label Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine has a deep red color with a bouquet of red berry fruits, peppery spice, and mint. On the palate, it is medium-bodied with juicy sweet fruit flavors and balanced oak characters, has a soft mouthfeel, and a lingering finish.

Wolf Yellow Label Blass Chardonnay. A dense yet vibrant wine which carries aromas of apple, pear and melon, with a hint or oak, its palate is medium to full-bodied with lively chardonnay fruit, oak flavors, and a creamy texture. It has a long and dry finish.

Wolf Yellow Label Blass Shiraz. Vividly dark red with a bouquet of pepper and spice supported by the subtle sweetness of oak, it has good berry fruit flavors on the full-bodied palate.

Wolf Blass Yellow Label Cabernet Sauvignon. This cabernet sauvignon carries the hallmarks of a soft, rounded wine with considerable length of flavor. Aromas of plum and berry are supported by flavors of cassis and blackberry, with the added complexity of time under oak.

Wolf Blass Yellow Label Merlot. This merlot has a deep, red garnet color with purple hues; this wine contains plum, cherry, and chocolate elements, enhanced by subtle, creamy oak textures.

Wolf Blass Gold Label Chardonnay. This chardonnay is soft gold with a hint of green in the glass. Aromas of grapefruit, peach, and nectarine develop into a full, rich, yet elegant palate, with a complex creamy texture and long finish.

Wolf Blass Gold Label Riesling. With this one, soft straw and green colors are present in the glass. The nose displays aromas of lemon and lime with a hint of passion fruit. Intense citrus and floral flavors are also evident. This wine has an execellent acid structure and a clean, dry finish.

Wolf Blass Gold Label Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine is rich velvet red with purple hues in the glass. The complex aromas of violets, blackcurrant, fresh mint, and dark chocolate with hints of cassis and tobacco are present on the nose. The rich-textured palate displays complex berry and mint characters supported by grainy tannins and a long seamless finish.

Wolf Blass Gold Label Shiraz. This Barossa shiraz kas a rich, velvety red color. Scents of liquorice, spice, and sweet, ripe berry rise up from the glass and flow into a palate jammed with blackberry, fragrant spice, and well integrated smoky oak. The finish has elegant fine tannins and must be aerated well before drinking. Great for cellaring.

Wolf Blass Grey Label Shiraz. A rich, deep red in color, it has aromas of rich berry given complexity by hints of pepper, spice, and dark chocolate. The palate displays soft tannins, a subtle touch of oak and a long finish. It is great for cellaring.

Wolf Blass Grey Label Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine is deep red in color, with a bouquet of rich berry fruit and aromas of spice and mint, given complexity by hints of dark chocolate. It has an elegant flavor with soft, well integrated tannins, subtle oak character, and a long finish. It is great for cellaring.

Wolf Blass Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz. This is a powerful wine with rich berry flavor and aromas or spice and dark chocolate. Collectors will enjoy cellaring this wine as its tannins will soften to display a long lingering finish on this big wine.