Grilled Lapu-Lapu (photo by RUDY M. LIWANAG)

An exceptionally beautiful girl is difficult to resist: unique, seductive, impossible to look away from, and with a certain je ne sais quois, she begins by capturing one’s gaze and draws him in with a promise of great things ahead. The restaurant Buenisimo is named after a Spanish word that is used to describe something very good or in Chef Gino Gonzalez’ own words, a “phat” (pretty, hot and tempting) girl. Would it stand up to its name?

From the outside, you get your first glimpse of her. Her classical visage makes her seem familiar, but upon further inspection (try not to be so obvious), she is modern, too. The Old World aura surrounding her could have made her look rigid, but it is softened by her earthiness and warmth. The effect is not intimidating. In fact, it is inviting.

What do you do after you get over the initial shock of seeing a beautiful girl? Get to know her, of course. It’s always good to start with her name. Chef Gino introduces her and you see that her very name is provocative. At first glance, it seems Italian, but then Chef Gino explains its Spanish origin, which then makes you all the more curious. You don’t want to come on too strong, so you start with something simple. Still, you keep it smooth by ordering a drink named after her. You hope to cool your heels with the Buenisimo Shake, but the tartness of the mangoes and the passion fruits only serve to further whet your appetite.

You then get the ball rolling with a few starters. As you know, it’s a lot easier to start with something that’s familiar, so you have the Calamares. You grew up with this stuff, so you think that you know it like the back of your hand. What you don’t expect is that she knows it very well, too. In fact, she shows you that perfectly cooked squid is great with gochujang mayonnaise and passion fruit mayonnaise.

Gochujang, a Korean hot pepper paste, is normally very pungent and spicy, but Buenisimo softens it with some Japanese mayonnaise. Her gochujang mayo makes you blush and makes the back of your neck prickle with its subtle heat and then she extinguishes it with a kiss of passion fruit mayo. Yes, she blows hot and cold. She’s a woman, after all!

You continue the flirting with some Salmon Confit Salad. Here, she shows her changing moods. First, she gives an offering of sea salt-sprinkled gravlax, but she holds back and cuts its full-on richness with mango slices and a passion fruit and tarragon vinaigrette. The fresh taste of dill and the bitterness of the salad greens confirm her complexity, which is hardly a fault.

How does she follow this up? With more seafood and passion fruit, of course. In this case, she presents you with Grilled Lapu-Lapu with Passion fruit Butter Sauce and Smoked Tomato Coulis. At this point, you just feel very optimistic and take her liberal use of passion fruits as a hint. “Yes, she is trying to seduce me,” you think to yourself. The fish is fresh and its flesh is very sweet. The fish’s texture is perfect and more complements the tomato coulis.

She attempts to entice you even more with another namesake, the Puttanesca alla Buenisimo. It works. The gourmet tuyo that stands in for the anchovies is not overwhelmingly salty. The longganisa Lucban adds a bit of heat with its garlicky flavor and the clever Buenisimo gets your attention again with a deadly sour and salty combination of green mango and green and black olives in the background. Yes, she has turned from prey to huntress.

Finally, she stops holding back and gives you the full effect of her powers. The Galician Style US Tender Riblets with Wild Mushroom Ragout and Mashed Potatoes is a very straightforward declaration of her intentions. The meat is pink and tender inside and the buttery mashed potatoes and mushroom ragout provide a foil to the robust flavor of the beef.

After the tango of the last few courses, you arrive at dessert and it’s a happy ending. The Choc-nut Cheesecake is reminiscent of Buenisimo itself: novel, yet familiar and inviting enough to make you ask for more.

Like any good cheesecake, the play between the saltiness and the sweetness of the ingredients is perfect. The dark chocolate ganache and the brown butter custard set the stage for the cheesecake itself and the whimsical gossamer strands of pulled sugar provide not just the right amount of sweetness, but also a dose of playfulness to the dish, too. Buenisimo seals the deal with a homemade Dried Mango Ice Cream. Again, like a great enchantress, she uses the power of your sweet childhood memories to ensnare you.

The seduction has been exhilarating. And even if the young Buenisimo is still finding her stride, she does make you want to stay and find out what other pleasures lie ahead.

Buenisimo is located at the Eastwood Mall, Eastwood City, Libis.