The best bangkeros of Pagsanjan battle it out in a regatta on the Bumbungan River. (Photos by RUDY LIWANAG)

It was one of those March afternoons when the sun shone hot and the wind blew dry, two unassuming bangkeros (boatmen) helped us clamber aboard a long narrow boat they call banca and paddled upstream for a two-hour boat ride on the rich emerald waters of the Pagsanjan River that gushes to the majestic Pagsanjan Falls.

At two o’clock in the afternoon, a river boat ride sounds like a really terrible idea. The heat was almost unbearable; the bangkeros gentle paddling was so slow it was lulling. It took us five minutes to take in the unforgettable sights and breathtaking beauty the Pagsanjeños and foreign tourists were raving about. Five minutes and then the magnificent sprawling river and serene foliage of gnarling trees and towering Pagsanjan gorge began to unfold before our eyes.

All of a sudden our banca was slithering through lush vegetation edged by rocky cliffs festooned with wild flowers, ferns and vines. The burning sun eased into gleaming sun rays piercing through tree leaves. The somber silence was trodden by the sound of water splashing against boulders. It was nature at its finest.

Fascinated as we were by the enthralling backdrop, we noticed the bangkero’s picking up pace as we approached the river’s first rapid. Then they got off the banca and, with bare feet, stepped on the massive rocks one after the other to push us upstream against the strong downward current.

They were shooting the rapids and I was both in awe and anxious as I watched them effortlessly hopping around the banca. It’s almost like an art, a kind of dance they gracefully performed. But their job is extremely harder than it looks.

The town of Pagsanjan, Laguna is known not only for the Pagsanjan Falls but for the exciting river ride called “shooting the rapids,” an eco-adventure attraction that passes through 16 river rapids or river obstructions such as huge rocks, sharp turns, and narrow passage ways of Pagsanjan and Cavinti. But besides the thrilling experience of drifting within the rapids, the real attraction is the dexterity of the bangkeros.

Not only do they paddled, hopped, and maneuvered the banca through walls of rocks and sharp curves, they also safely skimmed through a busy traffic of bancas carrying local and foreign tourists. As we passed along the rockiest part of the river, they had to drag and lift the banca all together to go across the rapids until we got to Pagsanjan Falls.

What’s more amazing is that one of our bangkeros, Ernesto San Andres, is already 64 years old. He’s been shooting the rapids for 40 years and he can still maneuver the boat lithely like the rest of his younger counterparts. “Lakas ng katawan ang puhunan sa hanapbuhay namin. Bata pa lang ako ginagawa ko na ito, hanggang kaya ko pa patuloy ko itong gagawin,” Mang Ernesto said.  Sadly, the income they get from shooting the rapids hardly compensates for their daily expenses. They need to have another job to earn enough money for their families.

According to our other bangkero, Jairo Abad, 26 years old, they can’t really depend solely on river boating because although hundreds of tourists visit Pagsanjan every week, there are over 900 other bangkeros to share the passengers with. “Sa dami naming mga bangkero, masuwerte ng makadalawang pasahero kami sa isang linggo. Kaya nangingisda kami minsan para pang dagdag kita,” shared Abad.

To honor these hardworking bangkeros who are considered navigators not only of the Pagsanjan River but also the town’s thriving tourist traffic, the local government of Pagsanjan annually celebrates the “Pagsanjan Bangkero Festival.” Held last March 2 to 6, the five-day festival, spearheaded by Mayor Jeorge Estregan included boat regattas, a colorful fluvial parade, palarong bangkero and cultural shows.

“Aside from honoring our skilled bangkeros, this festival is also our way to entice more local and foreign tourists to come and experience the natural wealth of wonders that Pagsanjan is internationally known for,” said Mayor Estregan.

So whether you go for serene spectacles or adrenaline pumping fun, Pagsanjan is a perfectly accessible escape from the frantic atmosphere of Metro Manila. A quaint town of global fame, it’s diversity of sights, old world charm, and warmhearted smiles are sure to surprise you.