Slow Travel

The D-LIST
By DAVID CELDRAN
March 28, 2010, 12:27pm

Welcome to the maiden column of the D-List. Why the D in the list? To begin with, it’s my list—a monthly rundown of what I believe to be the absolute best of everything in travel, retail, dining and leisure—in short, the products and experiences I’ve come across over my many years as a journalist and lifestyle show host. Conveniently, the D preceding the list also stands for Deluxe, Discovery, Destinations and all things that ought to interest the discerning consumer.

Admit it. We love lists and rely on them to get through the daily media clutter. In the accelerated and hyperlinked mediascape we navigate each day, lists help us edit and compress the deluge of information that greets us each time we flip through a newspaper, log on to the net or scan our TV sets.

It’s the sad irony of our electronic age: too much information, so little time—and yet, we insist on having it all, often in real time. No wonder newspapers are dying and Twitter is thriving. I hope the D-List offers a reason to give old school columns like this a second chance.

We live in an age where travel has never been this affordable or accessible. Budget airlines, online travel services and the global explosion in tourism infrastructure have given our generation of frequent flyers unlimited choices at previously unimaginable price points. But there’s a downside to mass tourism. Apart from the obvious consequences on local culture and ecological balance, mass tourism removes the thrill of discovery and the very fantasy that drives the industry.

As destinations once off the beaten track go mainstream, it’s only a matter of time before places like Antarctica, Patagonia and Bhutan begin sprouting chain hotels and fast food restaurants. Serious (and snobbish) travelers take this as a challenge to conquer ever more distant locations, but I prefer to look inward instead. The thrill of a destination, after all, is not so much in being first or among the exclusive few to enjoy it, but rather in the ability to take in a place, honestly and deeply, with attention to the authentic details of local life. Let’s call it slow travel.

The following destinations may very well be on, not off, the beaten path, but they retain a unique sense of place where the promise of personal space and a languid pace make it possible to fully experience what we call wanderlust.

KYOTO. The former Imperial City of Japan is a meandering traveler's dream with old bamboo-lined pathways leading to ancient temples and private gardens. The Ryoan-ji Temple and its hypnotic zen garden best capture the meditative quality of the city, while Geishas and Maikos still stroll down the cobblestoned lanes of the Gion quarter.

LUANG PRABANG. Once the royal capital of Laos, the UNESCO world heritage site by the banks of the Mekong River seems little changed from the days when kings ruled this Buddhist nation. The streets are lined with temples and the days are filled with encounters with monks who, just like you, pass the hours in silence.

SINGAPORE to THAILAND on the Eastern and Oriental Express. The three-day train ride through the colonial railway built by the British shows a side of Singapore, Malaysia and Thailand most travelers passing through their modern capitals seldom see: traditional kampongs (village) and an endless stretch of palm and rice fields dotted with village mosques and temples. An extended stop at Penang for a tour of colonial Georgetown is a highlight, but the luxurious interiors and impeccable service on board the train proves the journey is often the destination itself.

HUE. Hanoi and Saigon may be hurtling uncontrollably towards the future but the old imperial city of Hue retains the traditional soul of Vietnam. The ancient Citadel, ravaged by the Vietnam War, has been rebuilt and offers excellent samples of royal architecture and courtly traditions. A slow boat down the Perfume River offers views of imperial monuments and burial sites too remote for most tourists to reach.

TUSCAN HILL TOWNS. When the crowds in Florence and Siena become unbearable, go rent a car or bike and head towards Tuscany’s less visited towns instead. San Gimignano is on the tourist trail but few stay long enough so the town’s commanding views of the surrounding landscape of olive groves and vineyards are yours alone. Exploring the town’s medieval watchtowers, streets and churches is most enjoyable but so is sampling the local Vernaccia wine, olive oil and cuisine.

COSTA DE LA LUZ in ANDALUCIA. The coastal villages around Cadiz is where you can still find much of that legendary slow southern Spanish pace of life intact. During the day, small towns like Sanlucar de Barrameda are great for exploring wine estates and seafood markets. At night, locals welcome you with toasts of traditional manzanilla and plates of tapas. Spanish language not required.

For more of David’s top picks, visit executive-class.blogspot.com. You can also catch more of his picks on ANC, Saturdays at 10 p.m. and Sundays at 8 p.m.