The Underground River (photo by MA. GLAIZA LEE)

Sometimes, a place would grab a person even before he gets a chance to be there. Just as his imagination runs wild, his longing to be in that elusive place is already quite evident. That is the spellbinding charisma of Palawan.

Palawan is a beautiful painting of a paradise imagined and created by a master artist. When in Palawan, one will never fail to notice the verdant valleys and lush mountain ranges, the clear blue sky spotted with feathery and sometimes fluffy clouds, and fire trees standing tall and proud in the milieu.

Getting there

Palawan can be reached by sea and air transportation. Various airlines offer daily domestic flights. Shipping companies have regular boat trips, at least three times a week. One can also get to Palawan via Cebu or Iloilo, two of the major cities in the Visayas which have world-class airports and seaports.

While Palawan is one of the most geographically remote provinces in the country (in fact, some of the 1,780 islands are closer to Malaysia than to the rest of the Philippines), it is still one of the most frequented tourist destinations in the Philippines, and certainly for quite good reasons.

Long before commercialism has invaded this unspoiled destination, adventurous backpackers had already discovered and explored the mystical and rustic wonders of the province. In fact, in 1995, as its popularity surged in the mainstream tourism industry, Palawan was named the Destination of the Year by the Kalakbay Awards.

From a mere hundreds, the tourist influx steadily increased, even tripled in the following years, especially when three of its numerous resorts, namely Miniloc Island Resort and Lagen Island Resort in El Nido and Club Paradise Resort in Busuanga, won the plum Resort of the Year award in 2001 and 2003.

Meet the indigenous group

To really experience a place is to know its inhabitants, its culture and traditions. Palawan is home to several indigenous ethno-linguistic groups such as the Tagbanua, Palaw’an, Tau’t Bato, and the Bataks. Other sub-groups include the Cuyunos, Agutaynons, and Molbogs. These groups often live in the remote villages located in the mountains and coastal areas.

History has it that Philippine civilization could have started during the Pleistocene era, around 47,000 years ago, when anthropologist Dr. Robert B. Fox, together with his team from the National Museum of the Philippines, discovered a 24,000-year-old skull cap of a prehistoric man, dubbed Tabon Man, in the Tabon Caves located in Quezon, Palawan.

Along with the remains, burial jars, jade ornaments, and stone tools came the realization that Palawan could be the Cradle of Philippine Civilization. Research also shows that the Tagnabua and the Palaw’an are the possible descendants of the Tabon Cave inhabitants because their languages, alphabet, practice of kaingin, and common beliefs have several cultural similarities.

Aside from their geographical habitat, the ethnic groups of Palawan also share a unique musical heritage which revolves around the various types of agung ensemble, usually composed of large gongs which act as drums without any accompanying melodic instruments.

The perfect island getaway

Palawan is understandably famous for its beaches. While most beaches in the Philippines have gray sand, sometimes rock-strewn beaches, Palawan is hemmed in sheer white sand, its hues ranging from off-white to brilliant white, especially in the Honda Bay.

Surrounding the captivating coastline of Puerto Princesa City, the capital of Palawan, are the numerous islets of Honda Bay enveloped with white sand beaches, magnificent landscapes, several fishing villages, and verdant rainforests.

Located in Sta. Lourdes Tagbanua, about 12 kilometers east of the city proper, Honda Bay can be reached through the wharf where tourists can hire pump boats to take them to the island of their choice.

While some islands have entrance fees and others are privately owned, tourists can still enjoy the aquatic paradise for there are still numerous islets they can visit for free. Framed by the emerald waters, these islets have shallow reefs teeming with a breathing marine ecosystem which is perfect for swimming and snorkeling.

Two of the most frequented islets are the Cowrie and Bat Islands, named as such because tourists can have a good view of the Philippine fruit bats coming out of their holes, flying freely in the golden sky at sundown, on the lookout for their evening feed. The bats, swarming in the sky, are truly a sight to behold.

Another must-visit islet is the Snake Island. No, the island does not have man-eating snakes. The name was derived from the shape of the island – that of a long curvaceous snake. The islet is known for its white sand beach that is teeming with large and lovely shells.

Then, there’s the Starfish Island (yes, so named after the huge population of starfish), and known for its coral reefs that are jutting out of the water as if reaching up into the sky. Play a game of luck with Lu-li Island because the island is only visible during low tide; hence, the name Lu-li which is derived from the word “lulubog-lilitaw.”

Go on a fishing expedition at the Señorita Island, known as the breeding site for various fish species such as lapu-lapu, or take a relaxing break at the Meara Marina Island or the Arreceffi Island which is where you will find the Dos Palmas Beach Resort.

While it takes about half an hour to reach the various islands, tourists can drop by the various dive sites that abound in the water route. These dive sites are studded with patches of coral reefs which can be found close to the surface down to 24 meters deep. They have a rich marine ecosystem, with schools of colorful reef fish and other aquatic species swimming around the reefs.

Of course, when in Palawan, one shouldn’t miss the Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park. Formerly known as the St. Paul Subterranean River National Park, the world heritage site is home to a deep cavern beneath the rugged limestone and marble cliffs of Mt. Saint Paul, where an eight-kilometer underground river runs through its twists and turns.

On the trail going to the river dock, macaque monkeys scurry freely around the forested area. Living harmoniously with them are the bayawak (monitor lizards) and the snakes. At the end of the trail, at the mouth of the river, is a beautiful lagoon teeming with schools of colorful fish.

Stop by the Palawan Wildlife Rescue and Conservation Center and learn a thing or two about crocodiles. Formerly known as the Crocodile Farming Institute, the eight-acre institute aims to conserve endangered species of crocodile such as the Philippine crocodile and develop a suitable crocodile farming technology.

A tour of the institute starts at the exhibit area where tourists can see the various crocodile skeletons as well as the bones of a whale. At the nursery, one can get up-close with the baby crocs and pet them with supervision from the animal handlers. Then, there’s a small wildlife park where Palawan endemic animals are housed.

Love affair with nature

Puerto Princesa is dubbed as the “Last Ecological Frontier of the Philippines,” and for a good reason. The city within a forest boasts of its virgin rainforests and lush mangroves. When you tour the city, you can see the verdant and quite primeval forests and mountain ranges amidst the modern conveniences.

To maintain the balance in their natural habitat, the Palaweños are very strict in their ecological values and environment implementation system. In fact, nowhere in the Philippines can one find such unique love affair with nature than in Palawan. For one, the anti-littering laws are really implemented here. Throw one litter, and you’ll be fined. A third offense means a two-month stay in Palawan, in prison that is! Not to mention the $1,000 fine.

Another is this: the city government initiates tree planting programs. The constituents as well as tourists are often asked to join the tree-planting events in various areas such as the Irawan Watershed. Efforts are made to rehabilitate the 8,000-hectare watershed since it is the primary source of water supply in Palawan.

According to Rogelio Daquer, Puerto Princesa city environment and natural resources officer, there are about 200 million seedlings planted, with 80 percent survival rate. “Trees are the environment protection machines.  Growing trees consume about 20 kilos of carbon dioxide.”

Every February, Puerto Princesa celebrates the Love Month with “Love Affair with Nature,” where Mayor Eduardo Hagedorn solemnizes a mass wedding ceremony for all the couples who want to get married. In exchange, the couples will have to plant mangrove seedlings in coastal zones to restore degraded mangrove areas.

To say that Palawan is a paradise is more true now than ever. It is a fascinating amalgamation of urban and rural life, of natural and man-made wonders, and of marine and terrestrial phenomenon. It offers an astonishing world full of fine food, culture and traditions, arts, landscape, and good living.