Patan Durbar Square (photo by ERWIN & EUGENE YAPTANGCO)

MANILA, Philippines -- To go to Nepal and not see Mt. Everest is like going to Egypt and not seeing the pyramids, so we thought.  That’s why the pressure was off when we saw the behemoth via a mountain flight, practically the only way for ordinary, non-mountaineer tourists to see the world’s tallest mountain.

We were anxious about possibly going back home without seeing Everest since the mountain flights are strictly subject to weather conditions.  As a second best in case of failure to fly, part of our itinerary was an overnight stay in Nagarkot (elevation 7,300 feet), one of so-called hill stations an hour’s drive from the capital Kathmandu .  The small village prides itself with a panoramic view of the Himalayas, supposedly including Everest.  Yes, in Nepal 7,300 feet is still just a hill.  By comparison, Mt. Apo, the Philippines’ loftiest, is 9,700 feet high.

The road trip to Nagarkot was an adventure in itself.  The semi-paved road had steep grades, sharp zigzags and width just enough for two vehicles from opposite directions to squeeze through slowly.  Only the most precarious stretches had low concrete stomps to help keep miscalculating drivers and their loads from tipping into the deep, mostly vertical ravines.

The travel literature we came across all stated that on a clear day in Nagarkot, Everest can be seen, very important to those unable to do the mountain flight.  For the whole day, from the time we arrived there at noon, all we saw was fog all over, not even a glimpse of a snow-capped peak supposed to be in front of us.  We were told that this lack of visibility was more the rule than the exception, attributed to a concoction of fog, dust and smog from the bustling capital nearby.  Nonetheless, it was a nice afternoon as we were able to do some light trekking in the vicinity.

Fortunately, there was a storm that passed overnight and blew away much of the haze, enabling us to witness the sun rising from behind the well-defined rough black outline of the Himalayan range.  Another selling point of Nagarkot, the spectacle in itself already made our venture there worth it.  The storm also allowed us to take pictures of the magnificent spread, which stretched from the left corner to the right corner of the eyes, before we left for the next stop.

As to Everest, it is143 kilometers crow’s flight (local term for straight ahead) from Nagarkot.  Supposed to be at the extreme right of the view, it could not be seen since it was not a crisp clear day.  In any case, we were told that only Everest’s peak is visible and only as big as the nail of a pinky seen from an outstretched arm.  So much for seeing Everest on a clear day.

What we took was a standard Kathmandu package tour being sold by local travel agents, Nagarkot included.  It was good since all the important attractions were there and the price was right.  Kathmandu is a rich cultural experience.  It is unique because seven UNESCO world heritage sites are all within a radius of 20 kilometers.  The tour covered six of them -  three durbar squares, two Buddhist stupas and a Hindu temple.

The main draw is the ancient durbar squares in Kathmandu, Bhaktapur and Patan, three small kingdoms before Nepal’s unification.  Durbar squares are plaza complexes across the royal palaces containing remnants of the old kingdoms.

The squares had become a showcase of Nepalese architecture, craftsmanship and art over several centuries.  The main components are fine brick masonry and a style of woodcarving distinctly Nepalese, most notable being intricately carved lattice-like wooden windows and panels.

There are many courtyards, temples, shrines and ponds in the three squares, differing in layouts.  Commercial activity is brisk both from locals and tourists patronizing the many shops, cafes, food stalls and galleries as they while away time soaking up the milieu.  Kathmandu Durbar Square had been the site of coronations of the kings of Nepal and other royal events when the country was still a monarchy.

Swayambunath and Boudanath are Buddhist temple complexes and pilgrimage sites in existence since around 500 AD.  Swayambunath is on a hillock, offering sweeping views of the high density cityscape of Kathmandu, mainly of low to medium rise brick and concrete edifices.  There is however a price to pay for the scenic treat -  a 365-step stairway to get to the top where the imposing stupa (dome shaped Buddhist shrine) welcomes the weary.  At the stupa’s center is a typical spire with Buddha’s eyes painted on all four sides, keeping watch for righteous behavior and human prosperity.

The Boudanath stupa is one of the largest in the world.  Built on an octagonal base inset with prayer wheels, the shrine is ringed by houses of Lamas (Buddhist priests).  It was there that we sought an all-important souvenir.  A ‘Foraging’ article in the Herald Tribune identified a store that had garnered enthusiastic fans in Buddhist monasteries (they must know their Buddhas) the world over for its exquisite wrought metalwork.  Richard Gere and Cher picked up a few items from the Statue Maker’s Shop, Hotel Padma arcade right in front of the stupa.  The store’s specialty of eight-inch Buddhas, the most popular buy, can be had for around 150 US Dollars.

The sixth UNESCO site is Pashupatinath, a preeminent Hindu temple dating from about 400 AD.  It is said to be the most sacred of the temples of Lord Shiva.  Everyday, thousands from all over the world flock to pay homage to one of the most important places of pilgrimage for Hindus.  During festivals, attendance bloats to hundreds of thousands.

Non-Hindus are welcome inside the premises (via a separate entrance) but only on the opposite bank of the Bagmati River, which flows through the complex.  We witnessed an open-air cremation in full Hindu tradition on one of the many purpose-built platforms riverside.  The ashes were sprinkled onto the water.  Nepali royal family members are also cremated onsite.

We wanted to go to India as much as we wanted to go to Nepal.  But instead of taking separate trips, we decided to combine the two after seeing in the map their close proximity to each other and after considering the savings in airfare and travel tax.  The following day, we took off on a short hop from Kathmandu to Delhi.