Filipinos have come to appreciate more what the Natori brand has to offer (Photo by NOEL B. PABALATE)

MANILA, Philippines — With an eponymous brand that’s internationally recognized, Filipino designer Josie Natori feels she has come full circle in the fashion industry, especially now that she has opened two boutiques in Manila in partnership with Rustan’s department store.

“Even though I’ve been away from [the Philippines] for so long, I’m still a Filipino at heart,” says the New York-based designer, who “loves” the idea of traveling to Manila every now and then.

After 35 years or so in fashion, one couldn’t help but wonder why Natori only opened in-store boutiques in Manila a few months ago.

Perhaps it’s about timing.

As Natori explains, “I think [Rustan’s and the Natori team] are both very curious about building this business… I just feel it’s the right time. I think compared to a decade ago, Filipinos have come to appreciate more what the Natori [brand and] lifestyle has to offer.”

However, establishing boutiques in Manila is more than just a homecoming of sorts for Natori. Equipped with a background on economics and investment banking, Natori thinks that the Asian region has good possibilities for further development.

“There’s so much happening in Asia, even in the Philippines,” she shares. “I have a great desire to dress the whole Philippines. We like to focus on Asia now and I feel like I want to build it right here in the Philippines [first] and really do it big.”

‘A good accident’

Born Josefina Almeda Cruz, Natori says that she grew up in an entrepreneurial family. “My father (construction tycoon Felipe Cruz) is a self-made man and my grandmother was really like an entrepreneur. It’s in my blood. I knew that I would have my own business.”

In 1977, Natori left her job as vice president of investment banking for Merrill Lynch to pursue her own entrepreneurial ventures. “I wanted to have things that would connect me with the Philippines. I wanted a business based on that. I was looking at things to buy and sell. I looked at furniture, baby’s clothes, bassinets… and by accident a friend sent me an embroidered blouse.”

Natori showed the embroidered blouse to a buyer at Bloomingdale’s. Natori was encouraged to make it into a sleep shirt, which led to her foray into lingerie and more.

“It was really by accident that I ended up in fashion,” she says. “It wasn’t really a goal… it was a good accident. I never thought in a million years that I would end up being in design and fashion.”

With the help of her husband Ken, she has been able to build the Natori name as a lifestyle brand, with an “East meets West” aesthetic complemented by labels that carry ready-to-wear and couture collections, loungewear, sleepwear, swimwear, home accessories, fragrances, eyewear, and the ubiquitous lingerie.

‘Indulgence is a necessity’

Through the years, independent and self-empowered women have inspired Natori. “The Natori brand is all about being you,” she says. “For me, it’s about understanding what women want. I feel like I’m catering to a woman who cares about herself, one who works hard [and] where indulgence is a necessity.”

Natori considers her products as a form of self-reward for the modern working lady, things that “you don’t really need but you want because [they] make you feel great.” It’s about instant gratification. “Why not?” asks Natori, who goes by this particular philosophy: “I don’t need to wait for somebody to buy it for me. I’ll buy it myself.”

Part of Natori’s efforts into reaching women from different economic backgrounds is through brand collaborations. She collaborated with Avon before, and has currently designed limited-edition, more affordable lines of lingerie and loungewear for US mass retailer Target.

Considering that fashion has become more democratic, Natori says that brand collaborations allow different consumer bases “a limited engagement to connect with designers.” Simply put, designers gain more recognition as people have more pocket-friendly access to their wares (the limited-edition part helps to preserve the designers’ novelty and integrity) through reputable brands.

It seems an effective strategy, given how trends change over time. It also pays for brands to understand the lifestyles of their consumers and to keep evolving in order to give them something new. “I’m very fortunate that I love it,” relates Natori, on being in the fashion industry with enthusiasm. “I don’t think you can be good and continue to be so in something without loving it.”

Making it globally

As Natori considers Asia a burgeoning territory, she feels happy about the success reaped by Filipino designers abroad. “There should be more,” she gleefully states. “I feel like Filipinos are so talented here in Asia and I feel like there should be more abroad.” It’s a question of time. “That’s something I hope I can see, that more Filipinos can make it globally.”

How, exactly?

Natori thinks that the opportunities are here in the Philippines, so it’s apt that aspiring designers start in their own turf, since “Asia is very promising.”

Cliché as it is, Natori says that every designer must have hard work and passion to succeed globally. “You better love it to be in it. It’s not an easy world.”

While artistry is part of a designer’s career, Natori thinks that fashion is a business. “At the end of the day, what is your design if you can’t wear it or it’s uncomfortable or if it does not fit well, who cares?” It should also be affordable. “You have to understand what the consumers want.”

So, does Natori wear any Filipino designers? “No I haven’t,” she says, “but I’m friendly with a lot of them.”

“Filipinos are very hospitable,” Natori explains. “We’re a happy people and so nice. I think we love food and music… our artistic sensibilities make us very unique. We just love anything. We love to have a good time. We’re diverse and always smiling. I think my [Filipino upbringing and Asian heritage] has been the distinguishing factor [for what the Natori brand] is about.”