Water Snake Feast of Symbols

By Sol Vanzi, Photos by Rudy Liwanag
January 23, 2013, 10:19am
Executive Chef Sun Bing and Sous Chef Joy Candelaria, masters of fine Chinese cuisine
Executive Chef Sun Bing and Sous Chef Joy Candelaria, masters of fine Chinese cuisine

A lunch or dinner to welcome the Chinese New Year is the best planned, designed and prepared meal of the year in millions of homes around the world. Every dish is evaluated for symbolism; each ingredient is carefully selected and ordered weeks in advance.

We were among a select group to preview the Bountiful Set Menu at the Manila Hotel’s Mabuhay Palace to welcome the Year of the Water Snake and had a feast that exemplifies the best of Chinese cultural and culinary traditions.

Offered in an ongoing promotion that ends on Feb. 12, the 10-course spectacular ingeniously features all manner of fish and seafood from starter to dessert.

TOSSING FOR PROSPERITY -- Sous Chef Joy Candelaria started the ball rolling with the ceremonial tossing of the Yu Sheng Prosperity Salad featuring thin slices of raw vegetables and fish. It begins the feast because Yu Sheng, which literally means “raw fish” sounds like the Chinese word for “abundance”. This salad is considered a symbol of abundance, prosperity and vigor.

SCALLOPS AND NEW HORIZONS -- The soup (Seafood Supreme Broth with Dry Scallops and Fresh Crabmeat) was bursting with meanings as well. Scallops are symbolic of new opportunities and horizons.

WALNUTS FOR HAPPINESS -- The Sauteed Fresh Scallops with Crisp Honey Walnuts were refreshing bite-size servings accented with walnuts to bring happiness for the entire family.

SUGAR CANE SHRIMP BALLS -- Deep Fried Shrimp Balls with Shrimp Glazed Almonds came next, with the minced shrimps forming a ball around a stick of peeled fresh sugar cane, reminiscent of Vietnam’s famous grilled prawns. The Chinese equate shrimp with happiness and good fortune.

GAROUPA ON FIRE -- A whole Lapu-Lapu (also called Garoupa or Grouper), spectacularly aflame with Chinese rose wine, was first steamed with fresh herbs. The word “yú”, meaning “fish” has the same pronunciation as the word for surplus, or for ‘having leftovers of money’, an increase in prosperity. I indulged and cornered the entire fish head all to myself.

ABALONE AND MOSS -- Fat Choi Assorted Seafood Hot Pot came in its own cooking vessel. Black hair moss provided texture and thickness to the broth which was filled with fresh scallops, fish, prawns and whole abalone. The dish required hours of simmering to tenderize the whole fresh abalone which represents definite good fortune.

The dish is named after a mild tasting algae (black moss or black hair seaweed) which is eaten on Chinese New Year because its Chinese name “fat choi” (hair vegetable) is a play on words that means prosperity.  It sounds like “kung hei fat choi”, which is a greeting exchanged during Chinese New Year meaning good luck and prosperity.

The only offering not related to fish was an extremely tender Wok-Fried US Beef with Gann Xiang Sauce, so delicate it could be eaten without using a fork and knife. The sauce was rich without being cloying.

RICE ENDING -- Rice, following Chinese custom, was the last savory plate (Oven Baked Rice with Assorted Seafood and Cheese Melt). Rice signifies fertility, luck, wealth, and a link between Heaven (Gods) and Earth (Men). A new twist was the inclusion of mozzarella cheese which melted into the grains as the rice baked in each individual bowl.

GOLDFISH TIKOY -- Fish also figured prominently in dessert, as Tikoy (sweet sticky rice cake) came molded into the shape and colors of swimming goldfish. Tikoy, or Chinese New Year’s cake, is considered good luck to eat and to give away as gifts because it has the symbolism of increasing prosperity every year.  Sticky rice is also believed to keep the family together. Sliced and fried, the tikoy was a fitting finale to a glorious meal.

FAN ART LESSONS – In addition to a superb menu, Chinese New Year at the Manila Hotel is made more significant by an exhibit of hand painted fans.  Entitled "Nature," the art event is by the Chan Lim family of artists and engineers who have been conducting painting exhibits, seminars, and workshops for over three decades. The exhibit will be held at the Mabuhay Palace Hallway which is beautifully adorned with plum blossoms in time for the celebration. "Nature" will run from February 10 to 24, 2013.

Guests dining at Mabuhay Palace can participate in the Chinese painting workshop conducted by Dr. Alex Chan Lim on February 10, 2:00 P.M. The workshop is open to all guests of Mabuhay Palace dining from January 2 to February 9, 2013,

Guests staying at the Manila Hotel can join the workshop for free. The Chinese New Year room package starts at PhP 7,500 NET which includes breakfast for two, use of Health Club and Pool Area, and complimentary use of Internet facilities.

For reservations and more information, please call 527 0011 local 1344.

For feedback and comments, email to: solvanzi2000@yahoo.com.

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