‘Biling yari’
One fashion reference states this positively: ready-to-wear or prêt-à-porter, pronounced pret-ah-pawr-tey, and most often abbreviated RTW; simply means "off-the-rack" or "off-the-peg" if such phrase is casually used. These terms, most often are often used if the subject matter refers to factory-made clothing that are retailed, in finished condition and come in standardized sizes.
This is in contrast to those that are made to measure, or bespoke clothing tailored to a particular person's frame and body measurements. On the other hand, off-the-peg is sometimes used for items other than clothing such as handbag, belts and other fashion accessories.
We bring this up as aide-mémoire to the permanent participants in the bi-annual presentation of the very popular Philippine Fashion Week (PFW) that is coming real soon. Yes, sometime this May, the Runway Productions headed by the Espino brothers Audie plus Joey, will again steer up the up-and-coming, even including the established fashion designers from all corners in the Philippines, better to show what new ideas they may have up their inventive sleeves.
To most, being accepted to participate is an honor in itself. Most consider this as a promotion or even a graduation of sort. Imagine that from a shop in a remote location in the country, the fruits of their artistic imagination supported by individual labour of love and industry will be seen on perfectly lit fashion ramps.
To the alipin ng fashion I have talked to, PFW is some kind of a fairy godmother who grants them their wishes of being recognized for having the talent and diligence to come up with numbers that will be seen by thousands of eyes seated at the front row including those seated in the bleachers, the upper gallery.
One PFW featured palabas that excited me so much was one, trumpeted as Ready to Wear. This commentator was particularly thrilled since he once dipped his itchy fingers into purveying creations locally labelled as RTW. Many, I am sure, would still recall that for some time, the CHRISTIAN ESPIRITU labels became available at all the SM Boutique Squares, Landmark and even at the original Greenbelt.
Fashionistas searching for wearable articles to beef up their individual wardrobe flocked to SMX in time for the unfolding of the creations of off the rack garments, the well awaited segment of the Philippine Fashion Week at the SMX.
Having cosseted in that segment of the local fashion industry I was doubly excited to witness their personal stab into this commercial area of fashion. In alphabetical sequence this show had Dave Ocampo as opener. He was immediately followed by Emi Englis, Harley Ruedas, John Guarnes, Mike Lavarez and Nixon Marquez wrote finis to that Sunday afternoon’s fashion caravan.
Dave Ocampo’s approach albeit they were totally intriguing, for some brief moments had me confused. I thought I went into the wrong SMX fashion venue since his elegant drop-dead numbers were hard to pigeonhole as ready-to-wear.
During my brief sojourn into the local arena of off-the-rack, what I purveyed were fashion inventories that are simple, not needing grand occasions where they can be appropriately worn. Could it be, Dave Ocampo caters to made-to-measure clientele too? His goodies in symphonic shades of blush pink should be earmarked primarily to his haute couture clientele if he has them too.
Emi Englis for his part complied with PFW’s advocated parameter. His take on the lowly Tee is riveting. They are oversized, cleverly baring one shoulder, slightly transparent inducing sexiness and femininity. Englis coupled them with sassy leggings which even his male models donned effectively. And the additional faux leather fanny wrap on Heydar Hosseini gave a novel touch into this contemporary get-up.
The collection from Harley Ruedas I found truly interesting. Working on a linen-like canvas, the images seemed like they were painstakingly painted on the vital segments of the garments. The most winning number in the Ruedas collection was that outfit featuring a Goya skirt collaged with images of Pinay beauty queens headed by Margie Moran Floirendo.
The real RTW looking and feeling numbers were those of Mike Lavarez. They’re so suitable to sports-addicts while working out in some ritzy gyms. Watching those young and fit models only made us regret not having then taken good care of our now old and sagging middle.
The intricately designed items by John Guarness I find hard to classify as be-fitting the RTW arena. Guarness we concluded aims his target on people who have little time to go for measurements, and do the obligatory fittings, first, second and final.
Looks like Nixon Marquez perfectly knows what the people on the go would grab. His interesting coordinates can fully inspire people with youthful spirit and are on the go 24/7.
Now we have this one lady designer who has long been ensconced into the RTW bastion as the “Queen of knits,” Lulu Tan Gan. She recently participated in a fashion show fund raising put up by a group of ladies helping the less fortunate.
In her segment Tan Gan demonstrated how her time proven knits can be integrated with natural indigenous fabrics like pina and jusi. Accompanying photos was taken after the show and with Lilibeth Fernandez as “model” Tan Gan clearly demonstrated how a swag of pina fabrics can be utilized in four different fashion, as a bandanna, a scarf, a fanny wrap or a simple stole.
Once upon a time, Boyet Fajardo figured into a well talked and sensationalized brouhaha between this spirited designer and a clueless sales person inside the Duty Free shop. That well blown-up televised scandal eventually died a natural death. And the tacky incident soon got forgotten.
The episode may have vanished into thin air but not the spirit of Fajardo in his RTW business, His garment empire has subsisted steadily and presently he even has a former beauty queen as signature model.
Very effectively, Desiree Verdadero Abesamis, 1984 Miss Universe third runner-up, shows off Fajardo’s very wearable off-the-rack numbers, Substance, or Biling Yari Summer Collections with a tagline: Designed with the round and healthy women in mind!

