Baking 101

A Cheesecake out of water

By Junjun de Guzman and Adoree Chong Uy
June 19, 2008, 10:45am

We have received more questions regarding the use of water in baking after we wrote about it a couple of weeks back. We’ve already answered some of the questions before, but for those who did not catch the first article, read on.

Q: Hi Chefs Jun Jun and Adoree. I cannot seem to perfect my baked cheesecake. My problem is my bain marie; the water goes into the cheesecake and ruins the crust. What is a remedy for this? (Jamie of Quezon City)

Jun Jun: Do you use a removable bottom pan or a spring form pan? You have to seal it tightly with aluminum foil to make sure water will not enter and mix with your crust.

The other solution is to just bake it with no bain marie but to put containers of water around the cheesecake to simulate the bain marie process and feel. I have done this method several times and it gives favorable results. Please make sure that your oven temperature is at 300 degrees Fahrenheit.

Adoree: You have to double line your pan with aluminum foil so that the water will not seep in the pan. The foil has to be big and thick enough to cover the pan and not tear easily, and the water should just be enough to not go inside the foil.

Q: Many articles ago, you came out with an article that dealt with proper addition of water in making pie dough. I don’t fully remember the pointers you gave it the article, but my problem involves my over-addition of water when I make my pies. How do I gauge the amount of water to add to the butter and flour mixture? (Michelle of Pasig)

Jun Jun: The addition of water should be more or less 75 percent of what is required in the recipe. It should be added while you are tossing the mixture; it binds immediately upon the addition of water. If there are some crumbs or pieces of dry butter flour mixture, you may add a tablespoon at a time just to make sure it binds to the main dough. If you added too much water, make sure to sprinkle a bit more flour just to lessen the stickiness of the dough.

Michelle, I hope that you did not prematurely melt the butter or fat in the mixture, causing you to not add much liquid. In time you will get it and find out what the final texture of the finished pie dough should be.

Adoree: Michelle, you just want to add enough water until you have formed a mass that is not sticky. It is all right to add a little more water than needed, provided the dough is still manageable. I am saying this because the dough will be dusted with flour during rolling out anyway and this will still be absorbed by the dough, making it less sticky. Just be careful not to add too much flour because it will make the crust tough.

Q: Chefs, when making pâte a choux, there’s a part in the procedure where we boil the water with the butter. How long is it boiled? Do we start with room temperature or warm water? Does the butter have to melt? How long do we cook the butter, water, and flour mixture? (Francis of San Jose, Bulacan)

Jun Jun: The butter must be at room temperature so that it melts faster. It must melt before the water boils. Once it boils, add the flour immediately. Use room temperature water. If you boil it too long, then the recipe becomes different and you might get a different final product. Cook the butter, water, and flour mixture, which is called a panade, for a few minutes until the following are seen; it clumps together like mashed potatoes, there is a film at the bottom of the pan, and a film of fat on top of the panade.

Adoree: Thanks so much for your question, Francis. You are right in saying that the water and butter are brought to a boil.

The butter added is sliced into cubes so that it melts easier. You just want the water to boil and the butter to melt in the process. Once the water boils, the flour is added off heat. You have to make sure all of the flour is incorporated into the liquid before putting the mixture back to heat. Continue to cook until the mixture comes together and forms a mass, the mixture does not stick to your finger when touched, and a film is formed at the bottom of the pan.

Q: How do we hydrate dried fruits? (Leonida of Iba, Zambales)

Jun Jun: I think we have discussed this question before, but we will answer it again for your benefit, Leonida.

I like putting in dried fruits whether they are raisins, cranberries, cherries, or blueberries in warm water for 30 minutes. After draining the water, dry them with a paper towel. When you hydrate dried fruits, they become plump and juicy for eating as well as a great ingredient in baking.

Adoree: Just soak the dried fruits in hot water or any liqueur for at least 20 minutes. Doing so will make the fruits plump.

Q: How much water should be used when double boiling? (Stella Marie of Makati)

Jun Jun: Double boiling is putting water in a saucepan and putting another bowl with a mixture to cook on top of it. This is done so that the mixture in the other container will not overcook or burn in the process. The water in the sauce pan is usually half of the capacity of the container; there should be no boiling happening, just simmering.

Adoree: Stella, just make sure the water does not touch the bottom of the upper pan and the water is just simmering during the process.

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