By Diana A. Galang And Jeremy C. Malcampo
In view of the Philippines' 106 years of independence from the Spaniards, it is, perhaps, heartwarming to be in a look-back on the significant memories that occurred during the time of the revolution. More so, as TASTE's contribution to Philippine democracy in relation to food and history, during the said era, here are some notes on how the Philippine Revolution (until the offset of 1898) had affected our cuisine and culture. Included here, are some of our heroes' favorite dishes during that period.
THE KATIPUNEROS
Mga anak ng bayan as they were also called, and as how we regard them in elementary history and Civica at Cultura classes were the people who fought directly against the colonizers. But, little do we know of their subliminally heroic ways and modes of living; what did they eat at the stir of battles, and underground conventions? Also, what did revolutionary households used to cook in a daily basis?
 |
| TANG CITY’s Fookien Fried Rice | |
As we all know, in a raw discussion, life in the early days (18th Century) was not as hard as today, because of the availability and abundance or resources. In every backyard were family-planted crops like vegetables, and fruits; poultry and piggery plus the rich sea's offer, it would be factual to note that the Katipuneros did not have a hard time looking for food.
They usually had full meals; dishes like litsong manok sa saha, suam na kuhol, inihaw na bulig (dalag) sa patpat at dayami, and kilawing hipon were enjoyed as common dishes. Also among their favorites were fishes like dalag, hito (catfish,) kuhol (snail,) alimango (crab,) and kambing (goat). More so, if the battles were situated in the fields, food was not a problem, because most houses within battle-perimeters had stocks, to where Katipuneros solicited resources from. In contrast, however, when encounters occurred in places with less and almost no resources at all, Filipino fighters had to survive weeks with just rice and salt.
More over, food (battle supply) was a great and fundamental factor during pockets of wars in different locations, lack of it was a great deficiency, causing packs and battalions to surrender. Noted examples were during the battles of Masukol and Binakod in Paombong. The battles lasted for a week, and the brigade of the Katipuneros spearheaded by Gen. Gregorio del Pilar blocked all the passages of the Spanish garrison and the convent at the spot. On June 24, 1898, they saw a white flag waved at the location of the Spaniards. The primary reason for the surrender was lack of food and water; soldiers were so exhausted from the week-long battle.
After the surrender, the townspeople prepared a feast, where when the cook of the prayles (Spanish priests) named Ba Memo prepared and served food that were favorites of prayles like Asado de Carajay, Pavo Embochado, Gallina de Oro, Hamon Bulakeña, Enselada Fruta and many more.
THE MALOLOS FEAST
On September 29, 1898, months after the declaration of our independence, General Emilio Aguinaldo who was chosen to be the president, established the first republic called the Malolos Republic. In Barasoin Church, Malolos, Bulacan, they prepared a huge banquet as a celebratory event. Feastings were all around. Independence were celebrated in high revelry in all the houses. According to the memoir of Colonel Simeon de Villa, under the shade of trees in the forest of Lubuagan, a “toast” for Gen. Emilio Aginaldo happened. At exactly 12:00 in the afternoon they started their lunch. Composed of: Paella / Valenciana na may mabuting bunga at kamote, Dumalagang manok na nilamnan ng sarsang strawberry, Lehon Baboy, Istilong Mauser, Apritada ng Lubuagang Kabundukan, Basi ng gubat, Bungang Kahoy ng Panahon, Matamis na Inuyat, Matamis na Kahoy, the day was said to live on forever. Foods and drinks were everywhere. After the feast, the so-called Indios shouted Mabuhay ang pangulo, ang hukbong tagapagpalaya at ang Independencia.
PHILIPPINE REVOLUTION AND CUISINE
Inevitably, the Philippine revolution had affected our cuisine most especially the provinces who participated in the revolution (provinces, symbolizing the rays of the sun in the Philippine flag).
In Bulacan, the Katipunerosas they won ransacked convents and pushed the prayles out. Cooks threw away the wines and other alcoholic drinks. But, many of the cooks saved and used such bottled liquors in cooking. Because of the event, it became a habit for the people of Bulacan to put serbesa and wine in their dishes, even old recipes were revised, adding alcohol like: Asado de Carajay, Solomillo del Fraile, Aves de Convento and Adobong Palos.
CAVITE FOOD & PROCLAMATION OF INDEPENDENCE
In June 12, 1898 in the mansion of Gen. Emilio Aguinaldo in Kawit, Cavite, the proclamation of independence was read by Ambrosio Llanzares Bautista, it was done in the hometown of Aguinaldo and the domain of the Magdalo faction. Among their favorite dishes were: Cocido Madrileño (pochero,) boiled beef mixed with string-beans, cabbage, garbanzos, and potatoes, with the flavor, enhanced with chorizo de bilbao and Chinese ham. But this version, as how the Magdalo loved it, was prepared without the tomatoes. Done in a different style, they called it aliñar preparation of food in one's plate; cutting the boiled ingredients all together and dressed with vinegar and olive oil.
Other dishes were Bacalao a la Vizcaina, fish sauteed in olive oil, potatoes, pimiento morones and tomatoes; Arroz Valenciana / Paella with clams, shrimps and crabs; and Sopa de Ajo - raw egg in a hot broth; plus famous Caviteño delectables as Callos and Carne Casada.
The Magdalos also liked Spanish-influenced foods like Cabbage Nojada, and Potaje de Garbanzos: both were side dishes, sautéed in olive oil and vinegar. After the battles Caviteños made their own versions of local Spanish foods like: Adobo, Adobo Seco (with liver sauce,) and Adobo con Caldo (in red oily sauce). Lumpia with the same usual ingredients but made different with the pork and shrimp, sauteed in achuete (to make it red) was a favorite; and Magdalo Kari-kari [care-care, kare-kare] was prepared with ground toasted rice and hot peanuts.
Also, being near the sea, they had a different exotic line of seafoods like adobong capiz, stingray, paros kilawin mixed with puso ng saging, paksiw na may murang alagaw, adobong palos na may luya and pinasingawang alupihang dagat.
To note, Caviteños habit of combination, and fusion cooking could be brimmed within taste-fringes of strong flavored mixed with a bland one, or wet with dry. Among the favorite combinations were: kari-kari with kilawing labanos or papaya mixed with pig's entrails; paksiw na isda or escabeche with guisadong munggo; lechon kawali with pocherong manok; pocherong baka with torta or lumpiang gulay. Estofado with daing or fried hasa-hasa. Lechong paksiw with tuyo; such fusion became a customary trait to Caviteños on food in the time of Aguinaldo, to remind the people that if there's prosperity there's also poverty.