Chinese chef Henry Cheung’s signature dish Lily on the Pond, bite-size steamed layers of eggplant, prawns, water chestnut, and black mushroom doused with spicy curry and white coconut cream sauces, is distinctly and distractingly fusion. In this day and age when fusion cuisine equals culinary seppuku, Henry Cheung emblazons it boldly and without concern. But accusations, against fusion chefs, of heaping too many flavors in a dish, or bastardizing pure cultural cuisines, are not without reasons.
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