At the Peninsula’s Spices Restaurant, recently, media people and Thai Cuisine aficionados gathered to welcome and hail visiting Chef Khun Sumalee Boonek of Thailand, and her culinary creations that were more as fine tribute-dishes, reflecting Thai families’ home-style cooking, and hawker cuisines
Without really much of culinary bawling, and defensive cooking elucidations—like what usual hotel chefs do—Chef Sumalee, of Peninsula Bangkok’s Thiptara Thai Restaurant, simply fiddled with sweet, chili, and cilantro to complement with her Par-Pia Thads—spring rolls with chicken—that were crispy yet a little bit over-powered by the sauces. Well enough, the Yam Som-G, a full spoon of fried rice, flavored with kapi or fermented shrimp paste, Pomelo bits, and topped with pan-seared prawn, was a neutralizer with some lemongrassy nuances, so much to get one’s appetite primed for a piquant Thai multi-course. But, the Kratong-Thong (minced chicken, and pork in edible crispy corn-cup,) Khao-Man Sam-Tam Nua Daed-Diew, (coconut-boiled rice with papaya salad and deep fried beef,) and the Yam Phak-Boong Krob, (crispy morning glory salad of crispy-fried kangkong leaves that passed a dredging of flour-egg-flour and seasoned with salt and pepper,) with prawns, all played competently, and finely rounded as effective appetizers.
But, the most notable dish that drew most attention and had lips curling, was the Tom Sam Pia’s elegant mélange of spices and herbs, but without muddle, settled chops of Seabass of soft velvety texture in sweet and sour soup base. The base had a strong ginger flavor, with spring onions, cilantro, and a mild lemony note.
For the main course, Gaeng Kra-Rhee lobster (yellow lobster curry,) and the Poo Phad Phong-Kra-Rhee (lemony stir fried crab-cuts with curry powder,) are good fillers and could considerably be regulars of this restaurant, even after the festival. However, the Nua Phad Prik-Thai-Daom, (stir-fried beef tenderloin with black pepper cracklings,) was a little overcooked and the sautéing flavors as garlic and spices were beaten by the bittering of the tenderloin’s crust—yet, still, it’s good and the tenderloin’s tenderness, preserved inside was a salvaging idea.
Much so, the exotic description of the Hor-Mok Pia (Serpent Souffle,) could have gotten everyone’s liking, and gastronomic predilections, thinking that a serpent fish was used, if not when the chef remarked "don’t worry, it’s Lapu-Lapu."
Clearly, like what famous gastronomists say, Thai Cuisine is meant for a strong palate, and is an adventurer’s cuisine, yet one mustn’t construe it merely as a brave methodical combination of herbs and spices. Maybe—or as how one enjoys it comparatively different from another cuisine—Thai food makes up a cuisine that is beyond chilis and spice—and maybe as how the essence of cuisine goes: perhaps, it’s just a perfect justification of enjoyment, and compounding all elements that make it all up. Chef, welcome to the Philippines!
OTHER RECOMMENDED DISHES:
Steamed Jasmine Rice; Ta-go Haew; (Thai rice pudding;) Sang-Kha-Ya Fak Thong (Egg custard in pumpkin)