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Good Earth’s Fusion Cuisine

   

As far as Chinese cuisine goes, given the Chinese influence and the ample number of Chinese restos in country, it’s only natural that most are familiar with each Chinese taste and tang. But then again, there’s Chef Henry Cheung’s Good Earth Tea Room. The Good Earth’s stiff bold leanings towards fusion cuisine combine traditional thousand-year-old Chinese gastronomy with a zestful modern Western slant, but notably without the sacrifice of authentic Chinese ingredients and techniques.

Dishes not normally found in Cantonese menus, such as tacos and pizzas, are on the Good Earth’s platters, a move that ensures furrows on critic brows. But Cheung believes that the future of Chinese cuisine is in the west. Cheung’s conviction asserts that the new generation of Chinese diners will have newfound taste buds. And as the old cuisine fades out in the backdrop, combining the East and the West will be the only key left to open their palettes. This to some is quite a radical and ridiculous idea, but given the success of the Good Earth Tea Room, he could probably be right.

Flavors from the restaurants menu are adaptations from different world cuisines. For appetizers, the Tunaquitos, a lift from Tex-Mex fare is sliced fresh raw tuna with spring onions served in a crisp taco shell with streaks of white and wasabi sauces. Another style would be the Duckquitos; shredded roast duck in a taco shell is served with a white sauce and sprinkled with black sesame seeds.

The dimsum Lily on the Pond, steamed layers of eggplant, prawns, water chestnut, and black mushroom doused with spicy curry and white coconut cream sauces is a consistent favorite at the restaurant. As well as the Crab Claws in Tamarind sauce, which is fried crablets and claws served bathed with a thick tamarind (sampalok) based sauce. The Lobster Ball, ground lobsters shaped into balls with a mustard and curry sauce, and the Popoy’s Delight, steamed fish fillets with ham.

Other recommended items in the Good Earth set of choices would include, the Sautéed Chicken with Pine nuts and Lettuce, the Eggplant with Special Tomato Sauce, Drunken Chicken with Century Egg, Holy Sole Breaded Fillet on a Marble Bed of Tartar Sauce, Fillet of Beef Sautéed in Pineapple and Mushroom, Spareribs with Mandarin Orange Sauce, Pan Fried Lapu-lapu with Mango Sauce, Shrimp with Bean curd Casserole, and the Crispy Machang with Dry Duck.

The Good Earth Oriental Cuisine and Bar–Good Earth Tea Room’s restaurant by day and for the hopping discotheque scene at night version–forges an ambiance uniquely at pace with its cuisine. Located at the Republic of Malate, the Bar’s ambience distinctively incorporates Oriental and Western motifs and designs. Take it from a giant 10-feet-tall Chinese terra cotta warrior, by British artist Peter Pinder, which towers in the middle of the lounge and its soft daybeds. A deejay’s booth with old 80s records on its walls beside a moat-like pond. A massive archaic wooden green door with carved handles that cover the doorway. Wood paintings, by Robert Topacio, depict Chinese culture with modern paintbrush strokes. And to finish, small pats of oriental figurines, lamps and carved wooden vases decorate the restaurant’s interiors, and contribute to the already tranquil and modern zen feel.

It’s since 1994 that The Good Earth first opened. As one of the earliest fusionists in the country, Chef Henry Cheung opened the original restaurant inside a spare art gallery at Magallanes. Honed in a Hong Kong restaurant kitchen and a prolific traveler, Cheung proved fusion critics wrong and opened succeeding branches in Malate and Greenhills. But in a stroke of bad luck, all Good Earth branches subsequently closed. The one in Magallanes was demolished due to commercial development, and its counterpart in Malate was destroyed in an accidental blaze. In 2002, with the franchise of avid patrons, The Good Earth Tea Room reopened in Greenbelt 3. And following its success the Good Earth Oriental Cuisine and Bar opened at The Fort Bonifacio Global City, and another tearoom at the Metrowalk in Pasig came next. And lastly, Cheung reopened his Malate branch, but given his staunch following he’ll probably open more.





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