BY JEREMY C. MALCAMPO
If genius destroyed art, then perhaps art is limited by all means, and the art of cuisine will always be subjective.
This, will perhaps, put Japanese cuisine more as a self preferential matter of enjoyment.
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SUSHI KATSU, located in Scout Rallos corner Tomas Morato, Quezon City, is simply a humble hub with the bests of authentic sushi, maki, and sashimi plus an exotic line of true Japanese cuisine | |
Sushi Katsu Chef Osamu Onodera conceivably lives up with this rationale as someone who never really planned to be a chef in his younger years. As a Hokaido-born sushi master who tenders his prime years in the Philippines, serving the best of Japanese food, Chef Onodera simply wanted to eat the best sushi back in Japan.
Born from a newspaper-linked family, Chef Onodera searched for the most delicious sushi, and turned out to be someone concocting Japanese cuisine based on his subjective judgment.
Lanie Lee Onodera (Sushi Katsu F&B Manager, and wife,) says that all of Sushi Katsu’s food line is based on Chef Onodera’s taste preferences, "how he wants to enjoy them."
This statement will perhaps elucidate why Sushi Katsu stands to be a humble place located in Tomas Morato. The place exudes a homey, native ambiance with bamboo panels that emit traditional Japan—without the blunders of too much modernity and speaks of true Japanese sensibilities.
In contrast to many pseudo-Japanese restaurants in the Philippine market today—that banner fad meals of swayed cooking that cater to the Pinoy palate that prefers strong tangy flavors—it is, indeed, difficult to distinguish what Japanese cuisine truly is if we are being offered, nothing but adjusted dishes, marketed as true Japanese fare—more or less, contradicted by true Japanese chefs.
TRUE CUISINE
Sushi Katsu’s order of Ebi Tempura, is served exactly as how Japanese chefs serve it in Japan, where the batter covering the prawn is in thin crisps—almost translucent, simply silhouette showing some color of the inside meat—thereby not overpowering the flavor of the prawn or shrimp.
Served with a sake side sauce, and a fresh mound of shredded radish, Sushi Katsu’s serving of Ebi Tempura is a must try, if one need be discovering the true taste of Japanese Ebi Tempura, without the over-crisped, and thick batter of what pseudo-Japanese restaurants offer in the mainstream F&B.
If one is in search of true Japanese cuisine and flavor, this small Japanese hub (Sushi Katsu,) situated within the corner of Scout Rallios, and Tomas Morato in Quezon City, is one to note especially when one has an adventurous taste.
Here, one can sample the finest sashimi and sushi creations as preferred by a Japanese palate. Without the gears of fusion techniques to build an appeal for Pinoy masa, this restaurant’s humble menu banners no less than authentic Japanese food.
Ranging from 80 to 150 Pesos per order, one can choose from a diverse delicacy line which highlights rare fares from Natto (fermented soya beans,) Tako Wasabi (salted octopus in wasabi flavor,) up to an exotic plate of Ika Shiokara (squid marinated in its guts.) And if one is too stranger for a pastiche of Japanese gastronomy, one can
always safely have a taste of each in small amounts—Gomoku Natto (a variety of sashimi with yam and natto,) that can always open up a palate for a more heavy meal.
Chef Onodera—who is perhaps one of the purist Japanese chefs in the Philippines—imports all his ingredients straight from Japan, so not to waylay what Japanese cuisine tang should be.
His sashimi platter, which is highlighted by some pieces of full Amae Ebi (sweet shrimp as prepared in Japan, and eaten fresh) is a heap of immaculate flavor that no Japanese restaurant in the Philippines can outclass.
The Sushi Katsu Sashimi Set (highly recommended,) P350, of fresh tuna, salmon slices, fresh sea urchin, Komaboko (sashimi fish cake,) sea bass, Kani, Amae Ebi Nigataken, and Konyaku, is a well rounded appetizer for all to enjoy.
Fresh Oysters for all dishes, as oyster sashimi and/or an oyster heap for a hot pot, comes fresh from the shores of Hiroshima Japan.
For a more romantic Japanese table, couples can always have a share of Sushi Katsu Nabe (290-small, 550-big,) of fresh seafood varietals, meat, and vegetables cooked in a hot pot that primes with a home-groomed spicy Miso broth, that is with high regard as something for the heart.
For so, as a note, Sushi Katsu is simply a place of subjective Japanese taste with the best Japanese service, without over-dynamism—simply minimalist in ambiance and superficies, but maximal in cuisine.
To Chef Onodera, who still enjoys concocting his Japanese victuals—based on his subjective delight, after tendering 20 years as a sushi chef in Japan—serves his best without the sways of modern culinary trade.
He simply lets the art of Japanese cuisine, live on… traditional, and ingeniously true to its character.
RECOMMENDED DISHES:
Buta no Shogayaki (thin slices of pork with ginger) P160
Gyutan Shoyaki (grilled tongue of beef) P198
Kobe Beef Set P2500
Nikomi 125
Chirashi Sushi P400
Basashii (horse sashimi) P580
Chicken Miso Grill P150
Katsuni (simmered deep fried pork cutlet with egg) P150
Maguro Yamakake (diced tuna with grated yam) P200
Gyuniku (Wagyuu, japanese beef) P580