In addition to its often-overlooked nutritional content, margarine also has a rich history, embroiled in issues of law that ought to be explored to understand the potential of this wonderful ingredient.

HISTORY

Based on international histographics and gastronomique anthropology, Hippolyte Mege-Mouries, a French pharmacist and chemist, invented margarine in 1869.

The invention was persuaded by a contest sponsored by Napoleon III for palatable fat that would probably boost the culinary image of France during that time.

Food critique Jeremy C. Malcampo and Chef Gene Gonzalez of the Center for Asian Culinary Studies note this period as the greatest turning point in France’s culinary history, after the reign of pre-Napoleonic royalties, and after the time of Antonin Careme. Malcampo and Gonzalez note that during this era, the art of restaurants and degustacion were slowly being born.

Perhaps, the contest was geared to support the increasing popularity of modern patisserie as evolutionized by Antonin Careme (the father of modern haute cuisine).

Mege-Mouries won the prize and the product was patented in England in 1869. He was not the first, though, to give suet (hard animal fat—a vital element in margarine production) a buttery texture. Earlier scientists had also accomplished this, using animal fats which were in semi-solid form at room temperature. But it was Mege-Mouries who made the mixture palatable by mixing it with milk.

The name "margarine" came from a minor error made by Mege-Mouries. In 1813 by a chemist named Michel Clevreul, who worked on natural fats and eventually isolated a substance from animal fats that formed pearly drops. As it was a new fatty, acidic substance, he named it "margaric" acid, using the Greek word "margaron," meaning "pearls".

Mége-Mouriez coined the phrase ‘oleomargarine’ because he thought beef fat (which he used to make margarine) possessed fatty margaric acid, which it doesn’t.

MARGARINE PRODUCTION

Naturally, animal fats were widely used in making margarine in the mid-19th century, but eventually, vegetable fats from cottonseeds, soybeans, peanuts, and corn oils replaced it by the turn of the 20th century.

Internationally, the methods for refining vegetable oils were improved to eliminate unpleasant odors and flavors, which spurred the wide use of vegetable oils in making margarine.

Margarine is made by dissolving lecithin, emulsifiers, and other similar fat materials in liquid fats then mixing with milk and salt. The two mixtures of fat and milk are then thoroughly mixed to produce an emulsion that is then chilled to solidify and become ready for trade. Margarine consists of 80% fat made of highly refined oils, 16 % skimmed milk that is pre-pasteurized and cultured, and 4% salt as a flavor.

By 1923, margarine was further improved and fortified with Vitamins A and D in accordance with the requirements of many Western governments.

THE MARGARINE LAW

When margarine was introduced to the United States in 1874, the country was producing a bountiful amount of farm products. In their effort to support domestic products, 22 American states immediately imposed discriminatory taxes on margarine to give butter a competitive advantage.

In 1886, federal legislation, which consisted of taxes and restrictions to reduce the marketing of butter, took effect. Black propaganda about margarine was disseminated, and this political meddling kept the use of margarine to a minimum.

The sale of margarine was restricted, as it was defined as a "harmful drug," and was heavily taxed. Stores needed be licensed to sell it, for it was considered illegal.

In addition, to further encourage the use of butter and increase its appeal over margarine, some states forbade margarine to be dyed yellow. The dye was sold separately and mixed in by the consumer. Public acceptance of margarine continued to be hindered when amendments to the original law were passed in 1902 and 1930.

In the mid-1930s, U.S. margarine manufacturers found out how to make margarine using domestic vegetable oil as a substitute for imported oils. It was only during this time that local farmers’ interest in margarine was motivated. With this breakthrough, discriminatory restrictions were eliminated for good, and in March 16, 1950, the Congress passed an act repealing the restrictions on margarine.

CULTUREFRONT TRIVIA

Two World Wars probably did much to establish margarine’s respectability in matters of use and nutritional value. This is because, during these wars, the scarcity of animal fat (which was the main ingredient of butter, and even margarine) led to the use of vegetable oil in making margarine.

Though margarine isn’t a true substitute for butter in the culinary arts, through the years, margarine overtook butter in popularity, both due to its lower price and because people began to be concerned about cardiovascular diseases.