A Post-Varietal Year Review
BY JEREMY C. MALCAMPO
My illicit love affair with wines started two years ago, after a Vertical-Wine-Tasting at the Center for Asian Culinary Studies in Greenhills, San Juan, under the direction of Chef Gene Gonzalez.
Knowing the elementary rules, such as "white wines go with white meat, and red with red meats," I started to respect the placement of each wine, and their capabilities to salvage even a totally bad meal with some magic. Thus, I appreciated how good wines create heaven inside the mouth when they are married to a good dish.
Two years later, I discovered that those were just rudimentary rules, something confirmed recently by Chef Gene. "I told you so," he said, "we don’t have to go with everything the Europeans say in matters of wine-and-food pairing."
I, for one, love Chardonnay in its exquisite goodness, with its fruitiness and balance of acidity for almost all kinds of dishes in almost all types of cuisines, whether white meat, fish, red meat, Western, or Oriental cuisine. This is not just because it’s expensive to buy more than one varietal, but simply because I love Chardonnay. Chardonnay works for me, even for a multi-course meal. But of course, when "White Pinot Noir," and Castillena-1994 Shiraz are available, I’d gladly break this personal rule, but until then, I’ll stick to the Chardonnay. I’ll take it anytime, from any vineyard and any production year, save for a Chardonnay from Chile. It’s a personal preference.
Though in fact there really are badly produced wines from different vineyards around the globe, there is still the chance that even a bad wine might go well with a certain dish, and become well-revered along with that particular type of cuisine.
After long and tiring training under Chef Gonzalez, I realized one thing that will put good and bad wines at the same competitive level: that not all "bad" or supermarket wines are, in fact, bad. This is so because sometimes, bankrupt vineyards who create profit with the usual "vin d’ table varietal," can sometimes produce a grape varietal wine. Wine connoisseurs from other countries sometimes accidentally review or use this wine varietal for a type of cuisine or degustacion, and discover its flavorful and fruity characteristics.
As a monthly exercise, I am assigned to sample new supermarket wines, available "supermarket price," in different wine racks at grocery stores.
Our goal is to discover affordable and available wines in supermarkets like SM and Robinson’s so that even regular middle-class workers can enjoy the magic of wines with food.
Though I know that Torres Wines are the best—and the most affordable for high "romantic" qualities—available in the Philippine market, and I know that E&J Gallo serendipitously produced a very good Merlot varietal last 2004, I sampled Prahova Valley’s line because most of them are actually less than PhP 500 each.
NOTES:
Prahova Valley Pinot Gris 2001
It is quite a quality vin-blanc varietal, this Pinot Gris, as introduced from France to Romania after the Second World War, and is particularly prevalent in Dobrogea (a region which encompasses Murfatlar on the sunny shores of the Black Sea in Eastern Romania).
I think this can keep up as a vintage if one decides to keep it, though perhaps a year will break the fruitiness’ hold, thus beginning a decline that might soften the different aromas.
It has a soft fruity bouquet and light floral-tails. It has slight smoky afternotes (which is a good indication that it might go with Pinoy barbecue with soy-tomato-lime basting—trust me on this one, but you have to eat it with rice and tomato). Creaminess is upfront when the chilling declines, and goes well with carbonara, Brunn butter cake, and panna cotta. Because it has a light mineral feel in the mouth—a very, very light taste of sand, and magnesium fumes—I think this might go well with a Mandarin Orange Salad, and a Lemon Torte. And since it has a dry feel, women will love this; it can even pass for a cocktail drink, especially when served in a twang-glass with fresh olives.
PV Sauvignon Blanc 2001
This type is lively aromatic with pineapple and grapefruits, a grassy character, and slight hint of honeysuckle, making it good with Rizalian Pineapple-cured chicken, coconut-hinted viands, and pork. It is good with Sinuglaw with coconut milk, and the Sutokil dish available at Quisine in front of Glorietta Mall. It also has a strong lemony acidity, making it good for cheesecakes and grilled liempo with a strong pepper profile.
I recommend that this wine be well-chilled upon serving. It’s good with chicken or fish dishes, and compatible with heavily cheesed salads.
PINOT NOIR 2001 Prahova Valley Standard Range
(Dealu Mare, Romanaia)
This wine has its roots in the Dealu Mare Region, in the sub-Carpathian hills, a location that has the potential to produce the best red grapes in Romania.
Perhaps this wine’s fermentation took one to two weeks in stainless rototanks; this is distinguishable in the cleanliness of the wine-body. And because of 48 to 84 percent clarity when tipped in a glass against the light (for reviewing the quality of the wine) one can say that it was at some point aged in oak barrels for not more than a year before bottling.
It has a wild bouquet of cherries, black cherries, and raspberries with an amazing dose of vanilla, making it great for panna cotta, Italian meringues, sans rival, leche flan, and Tiramisu.
Its raspberry flavors are well-rounded and balanced with a lively herbal aftertaste (good tannins), making it passable for French Provance Salads and vinaigrette-inspired dishes and greens.
When served at room temperature, the tannins become stronger and displace a good slot for red meat such as steaks, lamb, and veal. If lightly chilled (meaning really light chilling), it is good with Bolognese, Pasta al Pomodoro, baked macaroni, and even menudo and mechado. It is perfect with mashed potato Chantilly, but not quite good with Vongole and seafood pastas.
Cabernet Sauvignon 1999
This Cabernet features relatively thick and dark skinned, tannin-rich grapes, and is aromatic with blackcurrant and pepper notes.
It has a taste profile of ripe cassis and red berry flavors balanced with well-structured tannins and a firm finish. At room temperature, it is perfect with red meat, game dishes, and beef casseroles, especially the ones cooked with cheese. It is also good with Pato Al Caparas.
|