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Clothes Call
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A two-day PFW jag and the designers who rocked it

Joie de vivre: Daryl Chang

MY Saturday night was all planned out, my girlies and I were checking out three bands in two rock clubs. Tutu dress. Check. Black eyeliner. Check. Black wraparound boots. Check. Digi cam and phone. Check, check. That’s about the time I see the message

that I’m covering fashion week. Shoots. Now my all rock-glam outfit is so "off" for the event. I’m so not dressed! Either go home and be late or just work with what I have on. I’ve missed a lot of first parts in shows coz I take it too slow, and I didn’t want to miss any part of this, so no choice but to rock my frock.

NBC tent. Still got to the event late, but, I’m actually early. You would have to be local to understand that. Does the majority of the style crowd feel the shallow happiness when they’re surrounded by others who are creatively put together and who are positively vibrating with rock-star intensity? Or is it just me? I am not one of those people who discreetly, or for the most part, openly do the nasty look overs, blatantly dissecting fashion statements from head to toe. Au contraire. I’m exactly the opposite. I’m happy when I see people making an effort to unconform by being different and having their own wicked sense of style. But I am denied this simple pleasure as we were immediately escorted to our seats. Front row. Wicked. And refillable white wine. Hmmm… things are getting better...

Looking down at the list in my hands, I’m counting a total of 18 designers for tonight’s concept of "The New Generation Collection." I’m psyched. That’s a deluge of one-off designer clothes to covet and buy... but I’m still waiting for the show to start, it’s suppose to be at 6:30 but it’s now already close to 7.

And the standouts?

Garimon Roferos for his abaca accessories, hats and purses weaved form all Filipino natural fiber — even transformable luggage, a knapsack to a rolling suitcase. I most especially like the swan handbag.

Jasmine Castelo showcased a chic, streamlined all-black collection. Elegant in its simplicity, it’s wearable in a classic Audrey Hepburnish way. Her rendition of the little black dress was a ‘90s-inspired bustier tutu dress. I like. Loved the Sunday hat that went along with it as well. I also adored the black micro disco jumpsuit number with the statement collar. Rowr. Her floor-length black gown was creaseless in it’s fluidity. A simple yet dramatic collection. Perfect combination.

Jun Escario will always be a favorite. Not because I’m biased that he’s also from Cebu but because he almost always comes up with the most delectable and delicious creations. Feminine and flowy dresses make up his collection, clean lines and designs that are perfect in the minute details. How can you not fall in love with the Swarovski crossbones? His workmanship is impeccable, and he has perfected the balance of wearablity and sophistication. I learned later how much people delight in his designs when I learned that the whole collection was sold out. Aw.

Mich Dulce. Where do I begin to expound on this girl’s quirkiness? Her design aesthetic has definitely evolved from her days with Milkwear. Her draped PBB’s version of Galliano’s newsprint topped with the most fabulous headgear I’ve ever seen reinforces her leaning inspiration towards British aesthetics. Clearly taken from her studies at Central St. Martin’s, her newest education, and this I learned from her mum who was seated beside me, was millinery. It’s no wonder the hats stole the whole show. The designs and workmanship couldn’t be done with just mere hits and misses, it looked beautifully complicated and professionally constructed.

April 2, 2006 Luxe Wear Collection

To make up for yesterday’s not so "Fashion Week" garb, I planned my outfit hours in advance. I found the cutest outfit in Zara yesterday but then I’m saving that for the culmination of all these design showcase. Today I’m wearing an asymmetric black and white dress cinched at the waist with a 60-bucks belt (exorbitant for an ukay price) and opaque black tights. I’m ready to rock and roll.

I arrived at what I thought would be the right balance of chit chat time and a relaxed moment before the show starts. At least this time I didn’t have long to wait, it started only after an hour of the designated schedule. Not bad considering Filipino time.

And here are those who made my list:

Alex Pigao. It’s been awhile since I’ve seen a collection that has grand gestures as a styling statement. The exaggerated hats definitely gave a dramatic flair to the already strong black and white pieces. The definite standout is the white empire asymmetrically pleated voluminous floor-length gown. But these are just words describing it, seeing it onstage is a whole different "whoa" experience.

Aztec Barba. Now that’s a collection. Though the fabric is not really new, I like the Victorian twist. Good play of proportions, streamlined silhouettes accented with volume puffed sleeves.

Chris Diaz has sexy, boudoir sinfully delectable black-opalesque satin that’s like liquid metal flowing from the model’s limbs. To offset ebony as the dominant color, he lines black chiffon with nude colors. Kinda reminds me of Dior Spring-Summer 2006 because of the intricacies of his designs on translucent fabrics. And just when I thought I was ready to take these sinfully delicious babies for a night out chillin, the finale comes along and perks me up for another go at some heaving party. The bouffant Gothic/Victorian gown makes me feel like a rock star. All attitude, I just need some sunnies and I’m all set to party. Can’t wait to see his next collection. I’m a new Chris Diaz convert.

Protacio Empaces Jr. Another awesome talent from my island down suth. His collection belies his years of faultless workmanship. Clean lines and wearable silhouettes. I liken him to Comme Des Garcons, just when you think it’s just a simple shirt, you look closely and the details are impeccable. It is an intellectual collection. Not only are the fabrics, colors and designs cohesive, there’s an underlying concept. It is strong as a collective showcase but each piece can stand on its own. My favorite would have to be the stenciled brown waistcoat with the nipa hut embroidery for men and the shift trapeze dress with cut outs and a banded hem for women. Very Avenida in the ‘50s, smartly dressed men and chic, proper ladies. Though his collection did not incorporate any of the indigenous materials most designers are fond of, his designs still gave off a very young and nationalistic bravado.

Tina Daniac. Playful drama is the best way to end this day. This is how the material girl would look like when she wants a wedding. It’s feminine fun but with a street edge. Layered, draped, fully beaded, ruffled and laced, these clothes are definitely loaded with style and texture. It’s an amalgamation of periodic fashion eras: ‘20s, ‘40s, ‘80s and the ‘90s. Take note, though, these are not for the fainthearted, her pieces scream attention and you’d better be ready when you get it.

Connect with me, I’d love to hear from you. Comments, suggestions, violent reactions,

email me at style_maven01@yahoo.com

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