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A Brief Davao Interlude
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Pleasures of the Table: By Chef Gene R. Gonzalez

De Bonte Koe

It (de bonte koe) means spotted cow in Dutch, and Henny Smits, the owner and long-time Davao resident, truly has a quaint and homey bistro restaurant that serves steak and pasta specialties. I was treated to lunch there by EAGA Tourism Director and Villa Margarita owner, Baby Montemayor, and I exclaimed that Davao needed more places such as De Bonte Koe. I had sausage and mustard soup that was quite unique, after we started with a very flavorful pate served with homemade bread toasts. I would have preferred softer greens on my Greek salad but my creamy pasta with anchovy sauce got my attention on this charming eating place on Rizal St. in a complex called Casa de Habana.

On our second visit with Baby and her family, which was that evening, we decided to try out Henny’s new bar cum restaurant just across. Henny did a good job spiffing the place up with its bar, low ceilings and low tables that gave it really lots of character.

We were treated to some spicy mejillones or mussels in paprika, garlic mushrooms and salpicao as starters. I chose a Chateau Los Boldos Cabernet which, with its smoky and chewy lip-smacking character, blended well with the tapas. (The wines, though limited, are reasonably priced and well chosen.)

The wine further partnered well with our arroz alla valenciana and our paella negra which we ate up to the crunchy toasted rice crust on the bottom of the paelleros. (A slight snag is that there is no name yet for this bar cum restaurant.) Anyway if this is a preview of the food they will be serving I’ll probably be there more often, perhaps with some tantalizing and charming Davaoeñas if luck comes a knocking.

Ah Fat

The place is always a classic among those who like Chinese food in Davao and was introduced to me by Chef-friend Paul Tee. This is located within the Victoria Plaza perimeter where Hong Kong style seafood restaurants, Korean and Japanese restos have mushroomed.

Though alone, I was beset with having a grand meal and tripped on slipper lobster fried in garlic, peppers and chili. I chose a fragrantly stir-fried classic ampalaya con carne with a very tasty sauce and very tender morsels of beef. Then I had some steamed Lapu-lapu with crunchy taoso (crunchy soy bean crumbs) that interplayed with the soft, moist, oily flesh that contrasted with the crunchy taoso.

Next time, I’ll be ready and have a group of friends with me so I don’t stuff myself silly with not just three but more dishes.

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