Vitamin C, together with Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHAs), Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) and Retinoids, are all excellent weapons against skin ageing. But, unlike all three, vitamin C does not restrict one’s lifestyle in order for the treatment to work. For example, AHA, such as glycolic, lactic, tartaric and citric acids, which are naturally found in fruits and milk, are great for achieving a youthful appearance. They are abrasive and are great exfoliators, encouraging desquamation or the natural shedding of skin. These acids, although widely known to irritate a majority of first-time users, have properties that boost moisture retention, making skin look plumper. However, there are two reasons why I’d rather use vitamin C. One, AHA’s plumping effect does not work cumulatively, meaning these effects are experienced only while AHA products are being used. Two, while it is imperative to always use sunscreen, the reality of consciously avoiding activities that involve sun exposure can feel too big a trade.

Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA), on the other hand, while similar in powers to AHA, is slightly milder. Salicylic acid is one of the more popular BHAs. Because it can remove excess oils from pores, it is widely used to treat pimples. Unfortunately for me, like AHA, it can get photosensitive so it requires maximum sun avoidance.

I have the same issues with retinoids, a very potent ingredient derived from Vitamin A. Popular forms include Renova, Retin-A® and retinol, which although have been documented to produce extremely satisfying results against wrinkles, brown spots and other signs of ageing, have redness for side effect that lasts for weeks, in addition to being photosensitive.

Generally, I avoid sun exposure from 10 am until 3pm, so it shouldn’t be a problem. It’s the thought that I do not have the liberty to go out and play in the sandbox. It sort of defeats my efforts of trying to have a quality life while maintaining healthy skin. That’s why I opt for vitamin C, an antioxidant (neutralizes free radicals) that encourages the production of collagen and elastin, two things we lose as we age. It also allows me more than enough time in the playground, which becomes all the more useful with all the stresses and pollution these days.

With the plethora of vitamin C products, our options can get confusing. The trick is to know that L-Ascorbic Acid is the only known form of vitamin C that the body can use. Others simply smell orange-y because of fragrance, while the remaining lot possibly using derivatives that the body can’t use or convert to L-Ascorbic Acid, contain weak concentrations to even have any effect at all. Recently developed products are touting beneficial claims of other forms of vitamin C, which would have been all good and well, except for the tiny factoid that human skin cells can only use vitamin C in the form of L-Ascorbic Acid. Most dermatologists will easily share this information if anyone would care to ask. This may explain why they rarely prescribe Vitamin C products, which are widely distributed as cosmetics. These products simply do not contain enough power to deliver anti-ageing results.

Skinceuticals, a very popular and dermatologically-recommended brand, carries a wide variety of L-Ascorbic Acid options in serum forms. From Serum 10, 15 to 20 percent concentration, the latter being the maximum concentration the body can take. What the concentrate does is to stimulate collagen synthesis, eventually resulting in that supple, younger-looking skin we all desire to retain. It also prevents the manifest effects of free radicals, like brown spots on our faces, and provides protection against UVA and UVB. However, it is important to remember that despite the photo-protection, Vitamin C does not absorb light, like a sunscreen. It is, however, highly recommended as a tandem for your favorite wide-spectrum, sun-protection products. Personally, I also prefer vitamin C because of its ability to stay within the skin for as long as 72 hours once applied and absorbed. It cannot be rubbed, washed or perspired off, so it becomes a perfect skincare choice for people like me, who generally avoid, when possible, a multi-layer regimen.

Philosophy (Beauty Bar), the former secret brand of the stars, also prides itself in its Vitamin C powder at 10 percent concentrate, aptly named Hope and a Prayer, because when you don’t want to grow old, that’s what you do, you hope and you pray. What’s genuinely appealing about this product is its flexibility to mix into your favorite sunblock or moisturizer, so that the new blend becomes similar to a multi-tasking anti-ageing product. My dermatologist introduced me to this trick a long time ago, back in the days when beauty samples from cosmetic brands weren’t on my desk yet. It’s a neat cost-effective beauty secret, if you ask me.

Another powder that is just as potent is the Vitamin C Powder of Awake, a Japanese import available only at Rustan’s. Apart from its antioxidizing powers, it has moisturizing and cell-regenerating abilities, giving me bright and glowing skin on days I hadn’t slept enough. It comes in a set of four vials and is considerably very affordable compared to similar products within its category. Try not to be discouraged by its powder format, which although you cannot mix together with another product, uses powder-to-liquid technology, making it very easy to apply to skin.

Perhaps the most affordable Vitamin C regimen of all is the Vitamin C Capsules available at The Body Shop chain of stores, which although does not mention its concentration level in its label, includes ascorbic acid high on its list of ingredients. For a little over a thousand pesos, it provides 28-prickable capsules giving fresh doses of vitamin C concentrate each day to last for a month. What’s interesting about the brand is that it carries the most complete range of Vitamin C products, from Facial Spritz to Eye Reviver. They don’t all contain L-Ascorbic Acid, but rather different derivatives designed for their cosmetic purpose. For example, the new Facial Spritz, because it is a hydrating facial spray and also toner, contains more alcohol and citric acid to serve its purpose, while also delivering a refreshingly orange-y fragrance.

There are actually other effective Vitamin C concentrates in the market today, not in this country, though. According to a distributor I met, the Bureau of Food and Drug, which regulates the influx of beauty products, has not yet recognized borderline products of the cosmetic-pharmaceutical kind as a category that should be made accessible to the public via mass distribution. So if they get imported and distributed, like Skinceuticals, they will still not be available over the counter. The latter is sold only in clinics, so it becomes selectively available, although some reputable clinics entertain walk-in inquiries and will usually sell them as well.

But, in buying, know that it is always recommended to seek dermatological expertise before using any potent treatment, such as those high in concentration levels whether Vitamin A, C, E or K. After all, the idea is to look youthful, minus the faults of youth. Besides the only good thing, perhaps, that comes with age is wisdom, so use it.