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PEPPER: The Greatest Spice of All Time
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CULTUREFRONT: BY DIANA A. GALANG

One of the greatest spices ever available to man from the prehistoric times up to the present is the pepper spice. So precious, it used to be purchased by the single peppercorn and was even used as a medium of exchange. Though things have changed and pepper was not able to maintain its value because of the current mass-availability, it is still the condiment that must always be present in all the kitchens of the world. Together with salt, the two can create miracles in one’s dish. This small, black and dusty spice contains something that can trigger the senses and make eating simple dishes more thrilling, and appetizing. Aside from the said characteristics, there are more things about pepper that should be known like its spicy history.

The word pepper came from the Sanskrit word pipali (actually, one of the many names of pepper in Sanskrit, others are pippali and pippah). However, it was also believed by some lexicographers that the word was derived from the Old English word pipor. Some countries also had other names for pepper: the Germans called it pfeffer based on a Latin word; the French called it poire; and the Dutch had the almost similar, peper. Eventually it became known all-over the world by its present name.

History

It was believed that pepper originated in India, in the Malabar Coast to be exact, and counter pointing all known zone of origin through history. According to historians, Indians already used pepper as spice since prehistoric times. Ever since the Indians discovered pepper’s distinct culinary characteristic and its abilities, it was already valued so much that it was purchased by a single peppercorn and was called the "black gold." Because of this status, pepper was used as a form of money with great value.

The Romans also honored pepper; when they learned about its use they immediately sent explorers to obtain it. They also used pepper as a form of money and some of their "tributes" were paid in pepper. Aside from monetary value, pepper gained so much popularity in Roman kitchens that according to Edward Gibbon, a writer on Rome, "pepper was a favorite ingredient of the most expensive Roman cookery." The value of pepper can be clearly seen in 408 A.D. histographic manuscripts, when Attila the Hun demanded 3,000 pounds of pepper as ransom for the city of Rome.

In China, according to poetic reports, in the 2nd century B.C., pepper was made known by a certain explorer named Tang Meng. In the 3rd century, pepper was referred in the country as hujiao. Though it was already used in the 2nd century it was only in the 12th century that it became a popular ingredient in Chinese kitchens; however, it was only the rich and powerful families who enjoyed it.

Uses

Aside from the use for monetary transactions such as payment for taxes, rentals, tributes, etc., like other spices, pepper was used in the earlier times as a medical cure. People believed then that it was a cure for stomach aches, digestive problems like constipation and diarrhea, ear aches, heart diseases, hernia, insect bites, insomnia, joint pain, liver problems, lung diseases, sun burn, tooth decay and tooth aches. The Chinese used it to treat malaria, cholera and dysentery. The Indians believed that it can revitalize the body’s energy - reason why they ate it everyday. The Egyptians used it in mummification.

In cuisine, pepper is desirably used by many because of its unique and pleasant flavor, spicy but not hot. Its tangy flavor that stimulates the senses comes from a substance called piperine, which is found in the outer layer of the fruit. However, this spiciness may easily disappear when left exposed to air and sunlight - reason why pepper is best purchased whole and ground only when about to be used.

In the Philippines, pepper is also popular; almost all the dishes are spiced up by pepper, may it be soup, sauce, sautéed and even fried dishes. Many Filipinos experienced putting cracked whole peppercorn on top of an aching tooth to cure toothaches. In the provinces there’s also a superstition that a woman in labor should swallow three peppercorns to ease the delivery.

Production

As it was said, pepper production was first discovered in India; moreover, two of the finest types of pepper also come from there: the Malabar Garbled and the Telichery Extra Bold, both grown on the Malabar Coast, west of South India. According to experts, pepper growing is suitable in places with soil that is not dry but perfectly moist and rich in organic matter; certainly India does have this kind of soil. Aside from India, other countries that produce fine types of pepper are Malaysia and Borneo with their Sarawak pepper; Indonesia, which has two types, Lampong and Muntok, peppers; also, Burma, Thailand, Vietnam and Sri Lanka have their own kinds.

Types

Unknown to many, pepper is also categorized by color and every color has its own unique flavor.

Black – is the common type of pepper that is produced from unripe berries of the plant. The berries are cooked in hot water and dried after under the sun or by machine for several days. During drying, the fruit that covers the seed shrinks and darkens into a thin wrinkled black layer. This dried flesh is the one that makes the black pepper spicier than other types.

White – in this type the berries are allowed to ripen fully, and then soaked in water or in flowing spring water for about a week. Through this procedure, the skin and flesh of the berries will fall off producing a whiter and cleaner pepper. Afterwards, the gathered clean peppers are dried.

Green - like the black type this type also comes from unripe berries, however, it is treated with sulfur dioxide or goes through freeze drying to retain its green color. This type has a piquant and fresh flavor but unfortunately, it decomposes quickly.

Pink – this type is rarely seen, it comes from ripe red pepper berries that is preserved in brine and vinegar. There is another type of pink peppercorns that comes from the Peruvian pepper tree, a different plant family from the regular pepper.

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