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The Robert Mondavi Vineyards At 40
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Pleasures of the Table: By Gene Gonzalez

Robert Mondavi, who is now celebrating his 40 years of winemaking, is truly an icon of California wine. He is a moving spirit among winemakers and his unselfish contributions have made American wine what it is today.

My most fond memory associated with Robert Mondavi was when I was visiting his vineyard almost a decade ago and while queuing in line for a tour of his vineyard, I mentioned at the front desk that I was selling his wine at Café Ysabel. Immediately, I was segregated from the line and was brought to another group and the whole afternoon was spent in magical tasting sessions. The seventies and eighties reserves were presented to the collectors and buyers I was with.

Eventually his regular wines had risen in prices because of high ratings and demand and a more affordable Mondavi line called Woodbridge came into being. This was very welcome to the Philippine wine scene that was looking for good value for the short peso.

Recently I did get a sampling of what was available and popular. Though the guys at Mondavi should have thought that although the Philippine wine consumption is now tops in South East Asia and much of the wine consumed are inexpensive value-for-money wines, there is a growing echelon of collectors who should have been introduced or reintroduced to the more prestigious lines like their STAG’s leap district which is one of the more perfect districts for award winning and world famous cabernets. This they should do because it is this upper group that creates the hype and purchases anyway.

At the 40th year anniversary dinner held in Bocarino’s at the New World Renaissance, we started with a daring combination of Asparagus & Artichoke Salad paired off with a Woodbridge Chardonnay.

Their recently released chard had subtle tones of apple and citrus. The lightness would have made a good starter and being an easy drinking wine should have been paired off with an appetizer that could have contained some butter or cream. I think the Asparagus and Artichoke was hostile to the wine and erased its subtlety.

The second course was a totally different subject with the Pan-fried Lapu-lapu with Grilled Watermelon that went well with a White Zinfandel from Woodbridge.

The pinkish wine was more of a European styled rose because it was drier than most white Zins displaying grapefruit and light pomegranate aromas and flavours that went well with the Fish, and its acidity softened by the watermelon whose sugars were concentrated by the grilling. (I know the disdain of many serious wine aficionados about White Zinfandel but I think one can choose casual occasions such as a sunny day at a beach or by the seaside when having a well-chilled White Zinfandel).

Though the pairing with fish went well, I got to get my advanced glass of their recently released Selection Merlot which is a more premium line and did enjoy the big fruit, spice and complexity this had. It worked well with my last couple of bites of Grilled Watermelon and Lapu-lapu and flavoured well into the Roast Lamb and Morelles.

The Chef had truly done a good job in the main courses. I was in great anticipation of the dessert that paired a Woodbridge Red Zinfandel with a Valrhona Chocolate Fondant with Almond Ice Cream and Sea Salt.

The pairing did turn out to be a good marriage having the Zinfandel amplified with its characters of spice and dried fruit character like a light fruitcake when I got paired off with the Valrhona fondant and the fragrant almond ice cream.

This Zinfandel would have also done well with grilled burgers, chicken or steak.

At another tasting, I sampled some recent releases of the Mondavi Selection. One was a Fumet Blanc that had a tiny percentage of Chardonnay. This lightly oaked Sauvignon Blanc had light vanilla custard and pineapple characters on the nose with a back note of red apple. I do believe a fish dish whether in a cream sauce or lightly pan-fried in olive oil would do well with this wine.

The other selection wine we had was the Pinot Noir. The Pinot Noir was lip-smacking though a little too much of the oak I feel held back the fruit in one’s taste buds. This wine would blossom with probably some smoky grilled fish or a crusted steak straight off a hot charcoal grill.

Having enjoyed these wines with good company and some with our friends at the Robert Mondavi winery I have only compliments to say about these wines. I’ve enjoyed it and watched it rise the past two decades. But one more thing, this section is called TASTE, so next time you have a tasting, try the STAG’s leap O.K.?

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