First, German wine has come a long way, now being competitive in so many ways such as higher more standard alcohol contents and greater choices such as drier wines which can be paired off with food that used to be only partnered with its European and New World competitors. What is undeniably wonderful is the amount of intense fruit one gets from German wine, (which, after all the mambo jumbo where only complexity boils down to a product made out of fruit; so what does one look for anyway?)Well, it was not hard for them to come out with fragrant, drier and more competitive styles. The sweeter styles may have remained with higher alcohol contents and are still wonderful with a slice of fruit pie or cheesecake.

At a recent tasting of German wines, it was astounding to see the wonderful response people have to the new styles. Some still had the sweetness but I’m sure people now have better sense not to pair these off immediately with fish or seafood done in some incompatible and improbable manner.

I would rather recommend careful pairing with these spicy fruity wines maybe as an aperitif, to go with rich food such as pate, game terrines or foie gras. They would also go well with the complexity of Asian cooking such as Chinese, and even some Malay or some Thai dishes.

My congratulations to the Embassy of The Federal Republic of Germany and to Kit Schroeder of Brumms Quality Wines who brings in all these hard to find boutique German wines. (The problem is that due to her limited allotment I seem to never get to make a reorder, so I order minimum of half a case…) I remember a Maikammerer Mandelhof, she brought in during the past that was finished in a week when Wine Spectator gave it a rating of top ten wines for the year. (I boast as being one of the lucky mortals to have acquired some…) I do believe we should have more of these tastings and perhaps have a separate area for Trokenbeerenauslese or Eiswein? (am I sounding off to the ambassador…?)

Anyway, here are my tasting notes on the wines:

Casteller Hohnart Silvaner Kabinett Trocken 2005 – This is a Franken wine and comes in the traditional bocksbeutel or heart –shaped bottle. This is a light stew colored wine with a sour apple aroma hinting of light custard and cologne. This minerally wine is wonderfully dry and would be excellent with creamy sauces, stir-fried Asian cuisine and glazed Asian cooking.

Niederhauser Hermannsberg 2005 Riesling Kabinett trocken QMP – balanced acidity, dry, citrus, nutty, nectarine flavours with lots of mineral and a leafy, dry almost organic chocolate palate. Great with food with buttery sauces or stir-fried cuisine with sesame or peanut oil.

Robert Weil Rheingau Riesling 2006 QMP – cologne, ligthmusk custard aromas and flavors with a light sweetness. Citrus, green plums and a light cloy of honey. (A mainstay in Kit’s cellar). Would be great with Asian food and some cheesecake.

Pfeffo Riesling Kabinett Halbtrocken 2006 QMP – straw colored – light sarsaparilla and wintergreen aromas. Pleasant acidity with a white chocolate finish and a front palate of green plums and citrus. Pan-roasted Fish with Whisked Butter… Roast Chicken or Soy Steamed Fish anyone?

Gunderloch Jean Baptiste 2006 Riesling Kabinett – another mainstay in Kit’s cellar which I use often in my wine seminars now conveniently placed in a screwcap bottle. This is toasty, yeasty, light straw colored wine that evokes nuts, citrus and tart plums now has very little residual sugar as compared to how it was in the past. This wine may benefit from a couple of years of cellaring but it drinkable now. Great as an aperitif or with rich appetizers.

St. Urbanshof Riesling 2006 Mosel Saar Ruwer – Longans and lychees! All up front tart fruits on the palate. This wine which is another mainstay of Brumm’s is a favorite of my wine students. A minerally finish balanced off with some residual sweetness. Acidity may soften with one or two years of cellaring.

Van Buhl Spatlese Trocken 2006 – Sarsaparilla, celery and coriander aromas with musk, light melon and citrus flavors on the front palate. Medium finish but clean and dry. Also great with Asian cuisine and crustaceans.

Gunderloch 2003 Dornfelder – this astonishingly dark, purplish red wine has very flowery tones with brown sugar and damson and red plum flavors. The finish though is quite short. Would be okay with grilled fish or barbecued meats.

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