By the editors of National Geographic Traveler

Travelers can discover rural Argentine life and traditions at large ranches, or estancias. Once solely used for sheep farming, many now welcome guests.

"Estancias are very out-of-the-way scenic places," says tour operator Michelle Shelburne of LADATCO Tours . "If people want outdoor activities -- hiking, horseback riding -- I send them to an estancia." Estancias vary widely in style, accommodations and operation. Most are open only during South America's summer months, September to May. Since many do not have phones, it is helpful to book through a company like LADATCO or Estancias de Santa Cruz.

Following are three different types of estancia experiences (prices include meals):

                  -- Diehard wilderness trekkers choose scenic Estancia Helsingfors (0 for two, including activities) in Los Glaciares National Park, with its excellent access to hiking trails.

                  -- Wildlife lovers enjoy Rincon Chico Ranch (9-275), on Peninsula Valdes, for views of elephant seals and southern right whales.

                  -- A Magellanic penguin rookery with some 60,000 pairs of penguins is a hike away from Hosteria Estancia Monte Leon, which is also well placed for bird-watching; see Sourcebook, below, for details.

Things to know before you go    

                  -- What are the best times to visit Patagonia? October through April, when days are long and temperatures are cool (30s-60s).

                  -- How do I get there? Argentina has international airports in El Calafate, Trelew and Rio Gallegos. Each airport offers rental cars. Roads run through unpopulated areas, so stock up on gas; carry extra water, oil and gas cans; and know how to change a tire. Alternatively, arrange transport through an operator such as LADATCO .

                  -- What should I be sure to see? In addition to those mentioned in the story, top sites include Punta Tombo Provincial Reserve, where every October some 800,000 pairs of Magellanic penguins come ashore to nest; Cave of the Hands, about 25 miles off Hwy. 40, an area of rock paintings, some nearly 20,000 years old; and the new Monte Leon National Park, with coastal wildlife viewing.

                  -- Is it difficult to cross the international border? Border agents in Argentina and Chile usually grant foreign tourists a 90-day entry permit when crossing overland. Rental-car companies generally allow their cars to be driven in both nations. (NYT)