Working on a darker palette for Spring Summer 08, Cary’s signature filigree cutouts are reinterpreted in “peek-a-boo” curves held together by intricate weblike patterns. Showing his mastery of the female shape, this gown is not only a statement piece but it is also sensuous womanliness. Opening Cary’s collection, the exaggeratedly high-neck swathe was balanced out by the sleeveless cut, the long, sleek fit proportioned by the billowing folds that fell to the floor. It was as strong an impact as a full-on theatrical production. Cary has always created grand collections that have the power to literally take my breath away but his clothes are not at all alienating that I’d feel that I could never wear them. He always manages to make them extravagantly couture and yet fundamental enough for everyone, even those not in the fashion industry, to understand and appreciate.

2. Furne One

I’ve seen my share of gowns that rely on crystals as a saving grace for an otherwise boring silhouette. But I’m making Furne the exception to the rule. In a metropolitan environment where one thinks elegant classic is basic, Furne breaks the taboo by letting fantasy loose with his fabulous collection of nude gowns encrusted with varying shapes of crystals patterned with an artisan’s touch. When his first piece came out, it had the effect of silencing the crowd into a total, awestruck submission. With the sewn-in gems winking, gleaming and sparkling with silver and bronze, each hypnotizing, opulent piece silently called out to be stared at, admired and coveted. The total effect was, indeed, sinful as it was riveting. This piece, a classic romantic Grecian-inspired dress, had the perfect cut of the decolletage, an amazing fit, quirky, hidden pockets, a gorgeous cinch belt, and a patterned crystal design that ended just where the soft swish of the tulle started. Absolutely gorgeous. I would go and snap this up in an instant if only I can afford it.

Classic elegance is the Rajo Laurel signature but with this buttondown shirt and cinchedwaist, floor-length skirt combination, he has shifted to a more directional point of view and trend dictation. I must admit that I was quite surprised, but I really, really liked this one. The rolled-up sleeves of the shirt complement the skirt so much that it actually looks like it was one whole piece. I am particularly loving the multitexture fabric on the skirt; solids, broderie anglaise, and piped sheer. Fantastic. Classic, directional, minimal, and oh so femininely sexy, Rajo scored winning points on this one.

4. Philip Rodriguez

Cruise collection seemed to be the theme of Philip’s pieces because I can imagine a wealthy and fashionably jetset woman hieing off to some warm, tropical island in her husband’s yacht, escaping winter wearing this baby. But the thing with using animal prints is, one would immediately tip the hat to Roberto Cavalli. But, I cannot deny the fact that this piece is absolutely gorgeous. From the stage, the sheer fabric had strands of gold glinting as the model sashayed down the runway. The picture does not do it enough justice but this by itself encapsulates easy elegance, glitz and glamour perfectly, a combination that’s irresistible for any style savant.

One could always be edgy without being too literal, and for Lord’s debut on the Manila fashion scene, he could have done away with much of the hardware. But all is not lost because two pieces actually stood out strong in Lord’s collection and these were the ones done in monochromatic colors. The sexy, cling-to-skin gray micro mini dress paired with the multitextured-fabric cropped jacket was a winner and so was this piece, a floor-length empire dress with volume sleeves in pinstriped fabric. For the tough warrior woman and the dark princess in all of us, the origami sleeves channel a samurai warrior’s armor, but the sweetheart neckline and the soft swish of the floor-length skirt balances it out with just the right amount of femininity. It’s not girly girl, but it’s not too tough, either. It’s just right.