Tarta de Madrid

The Chaine des Rotisseurs, a Paris-based international organization dedicated to uplifting food, wine, and hospitality recently deviated from its black tie dinners to hold an afternoon tea for its elegant “Dame de la Chaine” or lady members. These wonderful women who love food and wine took center stage for a day and were honored with a sumptuous high tea and were happy to take home loot bags containing boxes of Droste chocolates from Holland, Carta Nevada Sparkling Wine from Freixenet, Gallo Fiber Up Pasta, and Guerlain beauty products as part of their treat.

I was very happy to find out that the Chaine handpicked the services of Manila Bulletin’s very own writer-chefs to execute the peripheral cuisine. Beerfriend’s Chef Toto Erfe and the Practical Chef Lawrence Zafra complemented the Spanish-themed merienda cena with their versions of Bocaditos de Chorizo or chorizo sandwich in puff pastry; Pistou Sulipan, a rich Capampangan wedding omelet of roasted peppers, olive oil, chorizo, ham potatoes peas, and tomatoes; Pollo alla King or creamed chicken in puff pastry; Spanish meat pies and finger sandwiches.

The marriage of two classic names in food paired off magnificently for the afternoon. Droste, a chocolate brand from Europe and one of the leading makers of cocoa was tempered by Chef Lawrence and made into pralines. The same Droste pastilles, melted and made into smooth, velvety hot chocolate by Chef Toto was paired off with churros. The assorted pure chocolates were also served on their own and were appreciated for their qualities of strength, smoothness, fruitiness, and other complexities.

I particularly prefer the dark noir with its ripe fruity, light black olive, earthy flavors, and long finish. This 75 percent or super dark (for hardcore chocoholics) has hints of wood spice, fruit, light acid, earthy characters, and a surprisingly smooth and pleasant melting quality on the palate.

Normally, chocolates at 75 percent have a longer melting start on the palate. Anyway, Droste chocolates are shaped and configured to melt between the tongue and the palate for instant appreciation, which is why they are shaped into pastilles.

Besides fancy teas and coffees, Chaine members were also treated to a nostalgic trip with a taste of La Cibeles pastries. These blast-from-the-past pastries are now being recreated by Pasteleria Mallorca from the original pastry makers from La Cibeles, who they had absorbed after it closed.

We started out with some freshly-fried churros in Cibeles style, which are finer and crisper on the outside. Dipping these in the Droste chocolate was ethereal. The chocolate goes into the hollow of the fritter and explodes in the mouth, all the while with the fried flavors of the rich dough playing with the chocolate.

Another pastry that went well with the chocolate was the classic Tarta de Madrid. Pasteleria Mallorca has not deviated from their original recipe. As a child, I remember that this pastry was “in” on every rich household’s party table. This puff pastry pie is filled with meringue and Bavarian cream. Its top is dotted with milk chocolate butter cream and is served frozen. This is one pastry item that never goes out of style and is appreciated by all.

Other pastries worth mentioning are the napoleons, Sansrival Milojas, and yemas all of which are Spanish classics. The large Christmas-style ensaimadas oozing with butter and pork lard were as sinful but worth every tempting morsel with the Droste chocolate brew. Besides the crisp and buttery argellanas and Palillos de Milan, I could not stop with the Almendras. This pastry confection is a tart of flaky pastry with chewy toasted meringue accented with roasted almonds and light touches of glaze fruits, which sends me back to my childhood days.

It is only during times like these when I can sample this kind of quality which is similar to the pastelerias in Spain.

Towards the end of the afternoon, our host Aaron Palileo who also imports Freixenet wines, opened some wines from his stash for our cocktails as we prepare for dinner.

For more information on Droste Chocolate from Holland call 921 2121 or visit www.adpic.com.ph. Pasteleria Mallorca is located at 18 Scout Fuentebella, Barangay Laging Handa, Quezon City (373 2789/373 2790).