Part of Don Protasio’s Holiday 2009 collection at Fashion Week

It's all about the play of contrasts with Vietnam-based designer Don Protasio, with giant, knotted shawls against slim frocks, cropped military jackets on long dresses, transparency with opaque, formal with informal, and gray against black.

The thing with these separates, though, is that when taken apart they each can become solid basic staples to work on. That cropped band jacket can go over any short shift or tee and jeans combo; the voluminous harem pants with the soft jersey top can be paired with just a plain tank; and the maxi dresses can be worn alone, or cinched at the waist.

A standout piece is one that came with the beautiful irony of symmetry and unequal proportions: A gray shift with drop sleeves is layered with a black, uneven-hemmed piece gathered at the waist Grecian-style, with slim strips used as a belt.