Pleasures of the Table
The Toasts of Spain


Recently, the Spanish Institute of Foreign Trade (ICEX) together with the Spanish Economic and Commercial Office in Manila flew in wines from over 20 wineries from different wine regions of Spain. It was wonderful to be invited for the tasting of over 140 wines from major regions such as Rioja, Richera del Duero, Rueda, Toro, Rias Baixas, Jumilla, Bullas, La Mancha, Valdepeñas, Jerez, Navarra, Bierzo, Ribera del Jucar, Campo de Borja, and Utiel Reguena. What was also very impressive was the show of force by different sparkling wines or cavas from several regions.
A lot has to be said about this tasting and trade exhibit which has not happened for quite some time, the last was about four or five years back. This year, there were more participants and one can see that the general direction of Spanish wines are really improvements from increasing scales of excellence, making it truly the gastronomic center of the Western Hemisphere.
I went around and took note of each and every booth. Unfortunately, I really can’t write about all the wonderful wines I’ve sampled. So, I will describe my tastings based on what I felt were the outstanding exhibitors and wines of the day.
VIÑEDOS Y BODEGAS DOMINIO DE TARES
Founded in the year 2000, this is a company that believes in producing quality wines from Bierzo. The company focuses on old vines and vineyards, from 40 to 100 years old, taking advantage of the advantageous terroir and geographical location of the area. It maintains two lines which are the Dominio De Tares, which makes a line of wines from Mencia, the indigenous grape from Bierzo, and the Dominio Dostares, which produces wines from the almost unknown and almost extinct indigenous grape called Prieto Picudo. The wines from both lines were outstanding and interesting and I was glad to have visited and spent time in this booth tasting the wines one by one.
DOMINIO DE TARES
Godello. A barrel-fermented white made from Godello grapes, this is a serious, heavy white made for contemplation as its flavors of apple, dried roses, balsamic are upfront with back flavors of toffee.
Tares P3. P3 comes from Pago 3, a vineyard with over 80 to 100-year-old vines grown on slopes and gravel to give it a concentrated intensity. This single vineyard evokes blackberry jam, spice, licorice and light cocoa flavors. A true revelation!
Bem Bi Bre. From 80-year-old vines, this intense wine gives hints of violets as it integrates flavors of chocolate, licorice, toffee, and wood spice with red fruits in a deep, red cherry color.
DOMINO DOS TARES
Cumal. Flowering with hints of plum in a finely structural and silky wine with a velvety finish, it is full, bodied, and robust red with good acidity.
Leione. With a New World nose and milk chocolate aromas, this bluish-purple and chewy wine is evocative of plums, blackfruits, and wood. It has nice acidity with blueberries and cream on a mid-palate. It is deliciously round and juicy. Wonderfully complex!
ELIAS MORA BODEGA
Founded in 2000, this company follows the path of traditional wine making as their wines remind you of the prim and proper balance of French inspiration mixed with the uniqueness of the Spanish terroir.
Elias Mora Crianza. Using Tinta de Toro grapes, it has an intense black cherry color with flavors of stewed fruits and licorice with hints of fine oak and back flavors of toffee. It is a chewy and fleshy wine.
Gran Elias Mora. With an award-winning, plumy and creamy palate and finish with black cherry, licorice and tobacco, it has soft and complex silky tannins. Outstanding!
CRIANZAS Y VIÑEDOS SANTO CRISTO S. COOP
Located in Zaragoza, it is a big grower and producer of Garnacha.
Viña Ainzom Reserva Premium. It has luscious, ripe black cherry flavors with hints of oak, cinnamon, and wood spices.
Bodegas Ontañom
A family-owned vineyard in Ribera del Duero and Rioja.
Marco Fabio Moscatel. A delicious, non-fortified dessert wine from Ribera del Duero, it is sweet, "guapple," young, and flowery.
Finca Torremilanos - Bodegas Peñalba Lopez, S.L.
Cyclo 2006. This is a biodynamic wine which has a toffee and vanilla nose. With this wine, a hard, candy, berry-flavored explosion slowly emanates on your back palate and captures your whole finish; this justifies the tedious process that these grapes underwent.
BODEGAS TRADICION
On my last stop, I sampled a flight of sherries from Jereg and ended with a very old brandy. These sherries carry the VORS or regulating authority seal. A filling ending to a wonderful day of tasting because these were totally top-class sherries and brandies.
SHERRIES
Palo Cortado. This one has an explosion of hazelnuts, almonds, and minerals on the palate with pastry and nougat as mid and back additions to its complex flavors. This rare 30-year-old sherry is one fine example of a pedigreed Palo Cortado.
Oloroso. It is less salty with balsamic, mocha, and chocolate flavors on the palate.
Amontillado. It has flavors of fresh, white almonds and a slightly dry, creamy finish.
Pedro Ximenez. It has licorice, caramel, and honey flavors that linger after the sweetness has gone.
BRANDIES
Tradicion 20 year. It is oily, woody and has flavors of coconut and toffee. It is a smooth, elegant brandy.
Tradicion 40 years. Dark, woody, and complex, it is a compendium of dried fruit, chocolate toffee, and spice in a very long finish. Smooth and velvety warm, only 500 bottles of this pure Pedro Ximenez brandy were produced.
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