A custom-built Nativity Scene on display at the carport of the Kalalang residence. (Photo by PINGGOT ZULUETA)

The Philippine parol may well be the most “iconic” symbol of Christmas for Filipinos but the “Belen” (crèche or Nativity Scene) probably runs a close second.  This is understandable of course, considering the Roman Catholic Faith of most Filipinos.  The Spanish equivalent of Bethlehem, the Belen remains a potent tool for teaching the Catholic faith. 

It is often mentioned that the Nativity Scene was first re-created by St. Francis of Asisi way back in 1223 though it had one major difference.  Instead of the static tableau of sculptures and figurines, the crèche of St. Francis was re-created with live humans standing-in for St. Joseph, the Blessed Virgin Mary and the Holy Infant.  It was said that live animals were also used in the setting which no doubt added an element of fun to an austere scene. 

For sure, there was an element of novelty to this first Belen.  After all, any scene with docile farm animals will surely bring out the inquisitiveness of children and adults—we are all usiseros, after all.  Nonetheless, it was clearly apparent that St. Francis’ intention was more than just re-creating the birth of Jesus in the manger, but rather his desire to focus the attention of the laity on the true meaning of Christmas.  Then as now, the desire for gift-giving and merry-making has blurred somewhat the celebration of this Christian holiday and the Belen, as “simple” as it was, proved to be a an effective means of reminding holiday revelers of what Christmas is all about.

No doubt, the first re-created Nativity Scene proved to be quite a success and not surprisingly, captured the world’s fancy.  Nativity Scenes, this time carved in wood or fashioned from painted terra cott, flourished in countries with a Christian background.  However, secular themes eventually seeped into the simple set-up of the Belen with human characters providing humor and social commentary added from time to time.  Examples of this would be the santons of France which showed everyday characters like fishmongers and vegetable vendors mingling about the Nativity Scene; or the stock Spanish characters that literally showed toilet humor.

Anyway, no one knows the exact date when the first Belen in the country was first put up.  For sure though, the Spanish friars were already cognizant of the Belen’s potency as a means of instruction vis-à-vis the Catholic faith.  It also helped that the country has a tradition of woodcarving and an unusual affinity and love for representations of the Holy Infant as exemplified by our devotion to the Sto. Niño.

Although intact representations of the Belens dating from the Spanish-era are very rare, enough examples showed that Filipinos spared no expense as Belen owners asked the best wood and ivory carvers to create images that are now considered works of art.

One can even assume that perhaps, given the distance of the Philippine colony then to the Western world, unusual leniency were given to the creators of these early Belens in terms of materials use.

Such a case can be made if we consider the religious artworks they made then which they covered with viriñas or semi-spherical glass covers. These artworks made use of a number of local raw materials ranging from the exotic to the conventional.  They were also refreshingly tolerant when it came to the interpretations or poses assumed by the figurines.

However, it was probably during the American period when the Belen gained even more popularity and currency.  Mass communication, mass production and an introduction to technological innovation made the Belen popular with paper cut-outs and pop-up Belens available for display in even the humblest homes.  Incidentally, this type of Belen still survives to this day—proof of how prevalent the custom of displaying a Belen in every home has become.

The custom of commissioning expensive recreations of the Belen also survived with corporate buildings often vying with one another in displaying sometimes life-size images of the Nativity.  Often exhibited along with extravagant lighting and even a profusion of parols, these corporate examples of the humble Belen have become attractions in their own right. 

Nonetheless, among all these corporate-sponsored Belens, only one probably dominates Philippine pop culture the most—the COD Belen, or more appropriately the defunct-COD Department Store Christmas Display. Not because it was the most spectacular, but because during its heyday, it managed to combine the essence of tradition and innovation and infused it with secular themes that to this day resonates with the Filipino public.

Indeed, this Belen has left such an indelible mark on the Filipino psyche that even if it was dismantled and re-assembled in another mall, Filipinos still call it by its original name.  It also proved to be very influential as towns and cities all over the country had clones of it made. 

To be fair the newer animated displays are more technologically up-to-date with animatronic technology years ahead of the original COD Belen. 

Nonetheless, the latter remains unique and heartwarmingly-Pinoy as evident in its surprisingly effective combination at one time, of a barrio fiesta theme with the Nativity as its centerpiece.  Certainly, one only wonders what the Three Kings might have thought of the Pinoy kid, clumsily climbing the bamboo pole in a game of palo sebo.

At present, one can safely say that although not apparent, the Filipino version of the Belen is perhaps even healthier or more popular than our love for the parol.  This is because we have been actually exporting it abroad for some time now, in forms other than the traditional life-like interpretations of it.  Examples of this include the dreamy and romantic Belens made of hand-made paper and even modernistic Belens in wood or resin that are then covered with a resin veneer and/or acid-treated capiz shell covering. 

Certainly, when the Filipino Belen finds itself halfway around the globe underneath a Christmas Tree in the United States, we have already concluded the cycle that brought this Christmas symbol to our tropical shores in the first place.