Many native vegetables in the popular Pilipino folk song "Bahay Kubo" are, in reality, imports from the Americas. Kamatis, talong, kalabasa and singkamas are at the top of the  list of vegetables Filipinos cannot do without. And they were all brought to our shores from Acapulco via the Galleon Trade.

Of these imports, the most maligned yet versatile and nutritious is the kalabasa, known in its native land of Mexico as calabaza. Students who do not do well academically are said to be nangalabasa. When everything else fails, the unlucky person is advised to “magtanim ng kalabasa” meaning to be content with planting the vegetable and not aspire for anything higher.

Perhaps the Philippines is the only country to foster a very negative attitude towards the kalabasa. Elsewhere, it is hailed for it versatility, availability, nutritive value and tolerance for drought and long storage periods.

As a cook, I love kalabasa because it is about the only vegetable that can be served as bread, appetizer, soup, main course, creamy dessert, crunchy cookies and filling muffins.

Appetizers:  Ukoy (fritters, substitute for bean sprouts), Chips (sliced thin and deep fried), Pritong Lumpia (fried vegetable spring rolls), Lumpiang sariwa (fresh spring rolls), or shredded with cheese and Tabasco and wrapped in lumpia wrapper, then deep fried.

Soups: People with arthritis who love Ginisang Monggo can still have their favorite recipe, or something very close. All they have to do is substitute boiled, mashed kalabasa pulp for the monggo beans.

Another one is the American Pumpkin Soup, made with sauted onions, mashed kalabasa pulp, chicken stock (or a boullion cube), salt, pepper and cream. To serve, top with toasted bread cubes and/or crisp bacon bits. For drama, serve in bowls made from scooped-out kalabasa.

Side dishes: Popular in Japan is this simple presentation of cubed unpeeled kalabasa, simmered till almost tender in broth with sugar, soy sauce and mirin.

Another street food fare is Teriyaki kalabasa, featuring unpeeled cubes brushed with Teriyaki sauce and broiled.

In Pakistan and India, kalabasa cubes are cooked in curry.

In some parts of Southeast Asia, kalabasa curry is thickened with coconut cream.

A popular Tex-Mex pica-pica is Mojos: deep-fried kalabasa slices, sprinkled with melty cheddar cheese and served with Tabasco and salsa.

Main course: The sky is the limit, for this veggie adapts to every other ingredient.

Diced, it can substitute for potato in Ginisang Corned Beef.

It is also fantastic with Ginisang Sardinas.

Use it in place of carrots or potatoes in Kaldereta, Mechado and Menudo.

Dessert: You can never go wrong with the popular Pumpkin Pie, topped with ice cream or whipped cream.

Kalabasa Flan is a simple custard of milk, eggs and sugar mixed with mashed kalabasa and baked. Sprinkle brown sugar on top ten minutes before taking the pie out of the oven.

Kalabasa Pastillas? Follow any pastillas recipe, but add mashed kalabasa. Increase the amount of sugar accordingly.

Bread: Kalabasa adds fiber, color, texture and tons of vitamins and minerals to any bread dough. You may use mashed cooked pulp or raw shredded kalabasa to the other bread ingredients.

Cookies, muffins: Mix grated kalabasa with the other ingredients and proceed as usual.