Pleasures of the Table

The authentic taste of Nasi Lemak

By GENE GONZALES
March 31, 2010, 11:26am

I dropped by this restaurant while shopping at Robinsons in Ortigas and got attracted to its menu that seemed to have a framework of authenticity. Being in an adventurous mood and needing to get away from mall dining stereotype chains, I decided to try out this place called Nasi Lemak.

For starters, I had Kueh Pai Ti, crunchy baskets with shrimps and marinated veggies like shredded carrots and jicama. It was a rather welcome greeting for a first timer. Its sweet chili sauce which has more tart than the Thai style already hinted culinary authenticity.

My Beef Rendang was a little more moist than the usual dry versions in Singapore and Malaysia but the spice mix was just right and I plunged the soft shreds of beef into my Nasi Lemak. The Nasi Lemak of course, which is a meal in itself was served with a crunchy pappadum, a piece of Balinese grilled chicken, a fried piece of mackerel, fried dried anchovies (dilis) and some chili sambal (also of dried anchovies called Ikanbilis).

The sweet chili sambal deliciously came with a mild scorch when mixed with my rice cooked with coconut cream with a greenish tinge of pandan. I was glad my dining companion had opted to sample the Char Kwei Teow or rice noodles stir fried in a black sauce that gave it a caramelized taste with bean sprouts for a crunchy texture and finished with chopped peanuts. It was as good as any street hawkers one can find in Singapore.

After a memorable first time treat, we decided to come back for dinner. I met the very friendly owner H.K. Tan who is Singaporean and I realized that the food had the authentic markings of his country because he brought all his spices and ingredients in the restaurant. His spice mixes such as the curries are from Baba’s, a well- known company for ingredients.

The Malaysian Chicken Curry that came in a stone pot was simmered to gentle fork tenderness and obviously used a lot of coconut crème. In fact, next time, I would order this on a ‘take out’ and heat it up the next day to have the curry really round off its powerful flavors on the chicken. (It is very much like our adobo which is usually better the next day.)

Our starter, the Rojak, a mix of fruits, crispy tofu and fish balls, was deliciously sauced with an udang or dried shrimp paste with a caramelized syrup. Its version which is similar to hundreds of dishes coming from either Malay, Chinese or Indian influences, is one of the versions I like since the sauce is close to the style of the famous coffee shop of the Meritus Mandarin in Orchard Road.

Nasi Lemak’s Mee Goreng, which uses an authentic Chinese Q noodle, is a good attempt in terms of flavors. I’m glad it’s not as shiny and greasy as your typical hawkers. The Kang Kong Blachan which is our typical vegetable stalks, stir-fried in high heat with shrimp paste, was our chosen vegetable dish.

Its crunchy fragrant stalks make for a delicious pair to the fish head curry that stole the show for the evening. The fish head curry which H.K. calls the ‘King of Curries’ is the pride of Nasi Lemak. Its reddish sauce reminiscent of pounded chili and tomato, had just the gentle intensity of heat.

It overshadowed the Hainan Chicken which according to Mr. Tan, was difficult to make in the Philippines because Filipinos have an aversion for pinkish chicken. I told him that we also don’t have the right chicken.  Fortunately, when our Hainan Chicken arrived, it turned out to be rather juicy and moist. I really didn’t think the proprietor had to apologize although I really wanted a far better rice with chicken fat glistening on it like the way they have it there.

Also, Laksa lovers may welcome the thought that there is finally an authentic Laksa served in Manila. Just make sure, you ask for full spice as the cook may have the notion of toning the soup down for us Filipinos.

Our dinner ended with a steaming plate of Onde Onde or hot filled rice dumplings flavored with pandan and rolled with freshly grated coconut. As you pop the whole ball into your mouth, it explodes with its palm sugar filling.

There are still a few items worth-coming back for to sample such as their Malaysian coffee (the beans are roasted with butter…), Chendol, a coconut drink with starch strings, some barbecued sting ray and their tonic soup called Bah Kut Teh. Of course, that’s a good alibi to have seconds or thirds of Rojak and Fish head curry. You can email me at chefgenegonzalez@yahoo.com.