Postcards from the North

If you travel to Ilocos by land, passing through the century old Vigan arc is probably the most glorious feeling after a ten-hour drive from Manila. Upon reaching Ilocos Sur’s first town, a surge of nostalgia hits you, followed by a shrewd realization that the stunning photos you see in the magazines pale in comparison to Ilocos’ unadulterated charm.
Recently, members of the media were invited to a familiarization tour of Ilocos Sur and Ilocos Norte to get a glimpse of the old world eccentricities of the twin provinces of the Ilocos Region. From the old houses of Vigan to the ivory shores of Pagudpud, we meandered through its timeless gems, as well as new attractions, that make Ilocos a favorite destination for local and foreign tourists.
Wistful walk in Vigan
To say that Vigan is a living museum of a spirited past may sound like a cliché, but its enduring beauty really does justice to such a prolific tag. It’s almost like stepping into a scene from an old world movie: century-old houses crammed between blue painted skies and cobbled pavements, quaint antique shops and cafés lining the famous Crisologo Street, carretelas carrying tourists to and fro, topped by the warm smiles of Ilocanos offering fresh produce at the local market.
One of the oldest towns in the Philippines, Vigan was once called Nueva Segovia in Spanish times and was an important political, military, and religious center in the North. Home to some of the finest Spanish colonial architecture in the country, Vigan Heritage village accommodates stone houses that date back to the 18th and 19th centuries. The colonial mansions have become Vigan’s physical symbol, and are now opened to viewing visitors.
It’s also an enduring custom for tourists to sample the famous Vigan longganisa, a salty, spicy, and garlicky sausage often served for breakfast. Another favorite is the bagnet, a generous slice of skin and pork belly deep-fried to crispy perfection and dipped in sukang Iloko or bagoong with sliced tomatoes, onions, and ginger.
The windmills and lighthouse of Burgos
At the Bangui Bay in Burgos, Ilocos Norte, a government project to accelerate the rural electrification of Ilocos Norte has turned into a popular tourist destination in the province. Inaugurated in 2005, the windmills of Bangui consist of 15 giant turbines the height of a 23-storey building.
Straddling the shore to face the South China Sea, the towering windmills are akin to the scenic wind farms found in the Netherlands. The project sells electricity to the Ilocos Norte Electric Cooperative and provides 50% of the power requirements of Ilocos Norte via Transco Laoag.
On the other hand, The Cape Bojeador Lighthouse in Burgos built in 1892, was once an observation post used to warn the people of impending naval attacks. It was also used to send out signals to ships passing by the Cape. It has only recently stopped operations in 2009. Locals claim it is the highest lighthouse in the Philippines, which explains the long line of tourists eager to ascend its top to take in the fresh air and breathtaking view of the South China Sea.
Pristine beaches of Pagudpud
The long strip of white sand beaches surrounded by aquamarine waters is the prized attraction of the coastal town of Pagudpud, Ilocos Norte’s northernmost town fronting the South China Sea. A two-hour drive away from Laog City, Pagudpud beach is touted as the Boracay of the North.
With quaint resorts and inns located at its beachfront, Pagudpud is a place where tourists can indulge themselves with an inexpensive retreat in a tropical haven. A mélange of coral reefs, soft rolling waves, and long stretches of sand, the beach also boasts of a wide array of water sport adventures for surfers, boardsailers, and even diving enthusiasts.
The buttresses of Paoay Church
The iconic Paoay Church is perhaps the most eminent example of Earthquake Baroque in the Philippines. Construction of the church was started by Augustinian friars in 1804 and was only completed 90 years after. Built from baked bricks, coral rocks, tree sap, and lumber, the church has 24 immense side buttresses designed for support.
A separate three-storey coral stone bell tower stands to the right of the church, which served as an observation post in 1896 for the Katipuneros during the Philippine revolution against the Spaniards, and again by the guerillas during the Japanese occupation in World War II.
MICE destination in Laoag
Laoag, the capital city of Ilocos Norte, stands as the industrial and commercial hub of the province. Laoag is also the center of tourism in the area as gleaned from the influx of tourists which posted over 193, 092 tourist arrivals in 2009 according to the Department of Tourism. Laoag International Airport services flights from Hong Kong and China as well as domestic flights from all over the Philippines.
With the recent inauguration of the Ilocos Norte Hotel and Convention Center, Laoag is now poised to become the next MICE (Meeting, Incentive, Convention, and Exhibition) destination of the North. The first and only convention center in Ilocos Norte, the hotel is expected to attract more foreign and local investors as well as business travelers to the province.
A mere fifteen-minute drive from Laoag International Airport, it has a total of 100 rooms, 24 dormitory rooms, and an 800 square meter single-storey banquet style convention center that can hold 800 persons. Other facilities include a mess hall, sports and entertainment center, and a chapel. The government-owned hotel was built through a P475-million loan assistance from the Development Bank of the Philippines.
DBP president and chief officer Reynaldo G. David said the loan is in consonance with the bank’s thrust to support and fast-track community development projects such as tourism-related programs. It is also aimed at improving the infrastructure and social services in the province, one of the rapidly-improving growth centers in the North.
So whether you feel like immersing in its romantic old world architecture or communing with its natural bounty, you’ll be surprised at how Ilocos Sur and Ilocos Norte effortlessly blend the grandeur of the past and the excitement of the new.
For more information on Ilocos Norte Hotel and Convention center visit www.ilocosnortehotel.com.
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