Maguro Tempura Maki (photo by RUDY LIWANAG)

Japan is certainly a land of paradoxes. At first glance, it seems to be a society of silent salary men and women with a highly rigid set of rules and etiquette. But dig a little and one can find its sometimes colorful and sometimes dark underbelly of Harajuku girls and strange and often disturbing forms of art.

Japanese food is no different. From the traditional and artful kaiseki ryori to the humble street food yakitori, one can see the varied identities of Japan. One thing that they do have in common is umami.

Umami, considered to be the fifth basic taste, is not simple to describe. Some have described it as the “brothy” and the somewhat salty flavor that seems to make one's mouth water when the palate is hit by a drop of soy sauce, a burst of shiitake or tomato or filled with the juicy flesh of a shellfish. Many have added this umami taste to various dishes, thanks to the father of umami, Dr. Kikunae Ikeda, the brains behind Ajinomoto MSG.

In spite of this, Japanese food remains one of the naturally umami-rich cuisines in the world. Chef Jayme Natividad of Jozu Kin, however, was not content with this motherlode of umami and thought he'd tweak it and set it on hyper mode. The place opened in September 2009 and almost a year later, the Anthony and Kristine Meehan-owned joint has pretty much hit its stride.

Very few chefs succeed at fusing Japanese food with other cuisines. This isn't too surprising, considering that the beauty of Japanese cuisine lies in its simplicity. Chef Jayme, however, with a CV decorated with names like Wolfgang Puck, Mario Batali, Daniel Boulud, and Tom Colicchio, has the guts and the credentials to turn this concept on its ear. He hesitates to call it “fusion” though, preferring to say that it's “Japanese food prepared differently.” Hmm, okay. In any case, when it comes to food, labels (should) mean nothing and the flavor should have the final word. So let the umami feast begin!

We begin with a parade of completely untraditional sushi. First up is the Smoked Salmon Roll with Spicy Sake Togarashi. It is a bold start to the meal. The smoked salmon provides a very heady vessel for the zesty heat of the togarashi. The heat courses through the tongue and then is tempered and complemented by the salmon.

This is followed by the Maguro Tempura Maki with Philadelphia Cheese and Furikake. Now, this is a bit of a cheat, umami-wise. Furikake is a Japanese condiment that contains ground fish, nori, katsuoboshi, dried miso, egg and more ingredients that are packed in umami. Add some cream cheese, some panko breadcrumbs and deep-fry the whole thing and well, one can't go wrong there. Despite the presence of very rich ingredients, it doesn't feel heavy on the palate or the stomach. This is lucky because the next sushi, Asupara Kani Maki with Katsuoboshi and Black Sesame is a winner. At first bite, the katsuoboshi turns from dry and flaky to soft and juicy, filling the mouth with the taste of the sea. The asparagus provides a nice bite and the black sesame adds a crunch plus a hint of nuttiness.

The Garden Roll, rice wrapped in Baguio lettuce surrounded by a streak of a simple, yet addictive sauce and a selection of seaweeds showcases why Chef Jayme became a saucier in the stellar kitchens of New York. The mixture of Japanese mayonnaise and unagi sauce seems to mock with its simplicity, but it manages to be an ethereal accompaniment to the subtle vegetarian dish.

We move on to the sashimi next. The Maguro Togarashi with Wasabi Mayo and Panko Breadcrumbs is quite good on its own, but after the hard-hitting opening act of the smoked salmon roll, this seems a bit outclassed.

The Smoked Salmon and Arugula Salad with shallot vinaigrette, capers, and crispy potatoes, however, was a surprisingly good break from the sushi feast. It's not very Japanese, true, but neither are a lot of things that the Japanese eat every day. Yes, we are pushing it with the Japanese theme here, but it really is a good way to cleanse the palate after the symphony of salmon and tuna during the sushi course. The arugula is in complete harmony with the lemon zest and the cracked black peppercorns that stud the salad. The shallot vinaigrette has some bite, but it is countered by the saltiness (mmm, umami!) of the capers and the salmon. The potatoes make sure that the element of texture is not left behind, too.

And for the main course?  We begin with the Tartufo Hotate, a pair of scallops nestled on a bed of tender asparagus and topped with slices of shiitake and potato crisps. The plate is simple in itself. The notoriously difficult to perfect scallops are flawless here, melting on the tongue, its own umami blending seamlessly with that of the mushrooms and the asparagus. It sets the stage for the rest of the main courses elegantly.

We have the mainstays next. The tempura is nothing new, but at Jozu Kin, one discovers that the garnish is not simply for aesthetics. Atop the deep fried shrimps is a fan of raw somen noodles, tied at the base with a strip of nori, breaded and then deep-fried. Remember eating a pack of raw instant ramen? It's like that, only a hundred times better. For once, the garnish takes center stage here.

With the Tofu Steak, the fluffy clouds of tofu melt in the mouth and its gentle sweetness is augmented by the snow peas.

The Uni Udon brought us right back onto the umami trail. It's like a Japanese version of lemon garlic pasta, but much richer and more elegant. The lemon zest works very well with the unctuous sauce of the sea urchins. The sea urchin and noodles, which are important parts of both Southern Italian and Japanese cuisine, bridge the gap between east and west, playing up to Chef Jayme's strengths.

The last dish could be considered a hybrid of main course and dessert. The Pan Fried Foie Gras with Mango Puree and Sushi Rice is a great play on sweet and savory flavors. This time, it is the duck liver that provides the umami and the mango that becomes both foil and ally. The sticky sushi rice makes it reminiscent of the childhood delight suman with mangoes, but the foie gras makes a real difference here. It is an undeniably Asian take on the classic pairing of foie gras and fruit and instead of insisting on unseasonal and sub-par peaches, Chef Jayme opts for the peerless Philippine mango. There could not have been a more perfect ending to our meal.

If the lunch at Jozu Kin has taught us anything, it's that a chef's talent will bypass labels and categories. Chef Jayme has taken Japanese food to strange directions, but in the end, like paradoxes and the undefinable umami, it all made a lot of sense. Jozu Kin is located at Burgos Circle, Forbes Town Center, The Fort, Taguig City with tel. nos. 403-1875 and 403-3646.