Saigon

MANILA, Philippines -- We weren’t sent on a fool’s errand the day we flew to Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon), the biggest metropolis in Vietnam, on April Fool’s Day. Nope. We only learned some non-foolish facts.

For example, we found out that in Saigon, people can bury their dead anywhere – in the rice fields, in the backyard, even front yard, or just about anywhere for as long the family of the dead owns the property. So don’t be surprised to see tombs, in clusters, in twos, or single, watching like sentinels over rice fields or a home, even a building.

We also learned of a new crime that’s committed only in Saigon – scooter-napping it is called as there are more scooters than cars in the main thoroughfares. So many scooters in fact, that a total of 50 people die every day in Saigon in scooter accidents.

We also realized that Vietnamese tour guides are honest. So honest in fact that Tony, the affable guy assigned to us, who speaks in a lilting voice with a lot of emphasis on the syllables (like he was being poked by a needle in the butt), told us matter-of-factly: “It (referring to Mekong River) used to be dirty 30 years ago, and now it’s still dirty… And every five years, we have elections just for fun. We vote to enjoy the air-conditioning.”

And they call their toilets “Happy Room”.

We found ourselves – journalists and recipients of the annual Bright Leaf Agriculture Journalism Awards of the PMFTC Inc. – in Saigon on April Fool’s Day for a foolproof three days of fun and a lot of sun!

What a Bright Leaf 

Eight winners in all, from this year’s and last year’s roster of the best agriculture editors and writers, including MB’s own Zac Sarian and Melpha Abello were given by PMFTC Inc. president Chris Nelson a Ho Chi Minh treat - a treat that brought us to the streets of Saigon and the stretch of the Mekong delta – on foot, onboard sampans and bancas, on rickshaws and scooters.

The 3rd Bright Leaf winners were Zac Sarian, Melpha Abello, Edgardo Espiritu, and Fernando Zapata. This year’s Bright Leaf awardees were Mach Alberto Fabe (for his story on rice-duck integrated farming), Teodoro Molina (for his Tobacco Story of the Year), and again PDI’s Edgardo Espiritu and PS photographer Fernando Zapata.

“Today, more than ever, it is important to bring to light the issues and movements that define today’s agricultural industry by encouraging reportage on this sector. We believe that there are more positive agricultural stories to tell, more discoveries to share, and more images to provoke our minds than what is currently reported,” Nelson said.

Nelson added that since 2006, Bright Leaf has honored the best print features, radio and television pieces, and photographs that chronicle and capture the agricultural landscape.

Vietnam’s Useless War 

From Tan Son Nhat International Airport, we proceeded to the War Remnants Museum, formerly known as Saigon’s Exhibition House of American War Crimes, the halls of which are filled with gruesome photographs of the Vietnam War. It is near the city’s famous Reunification Palace.

To this day, walking on the streets of Saigon, you will find remnants of the war – people without faces or with deformed faces, stumps in place of arms or limbs – all victims of Agent Orange.

Agent Orange is the code name for one of the herbicides and defoliants used by the U.S. military as part of its herbicidal warfare program, Operation Ranch Hand, during the Vietnam War from 1961 to 1971, affecting an estimated 13 percent of South Vietnam’s land. It is reported that up to half a million children were born with dioxin (Agent Orange) related deformities.

After a rather depressing visit to the War Remnants Museum, we were treated by PM executives – Chris Nelson, Bayen Elero Tinga (Director, Corporate Affairs), Chita Herce (Manager, Corporate Affairs), and former newsmen now communications execs Elmer Mesina and Didet Santiago to an uplifting dining experience at the Nam Phan Restaurant.

Cruisin’ the Mekong Delta 

The next day, we motored south to My Tho, the gateway to the Delta and Vietnam’s agricultural heart. Along the way, stalls selling baguettes or banh mi and an assortment of fillings, fruits and pho (noodles) dot the entire stretch of road. We boarded a sampan and traveled to one of the islands located in the middle of the Mekong River. On the island, we visited an orchard, sampled various fruits, and witnessed a production line of coconut candies.

The Mekong River is one of the world’s great rivers originating in China and making its way through Myanmar, Laos, Thailand, Cambodia, and concluding its enchanting journey to the South China Sea in Vietnam’s Mekong Delta.

Lunch was served on an island lush in greenery and thick with vegetation. The food was native and fresh, especially the elephant’s ear fish. We were ready to doze off when we were whisked off to board an even smaller banca that can only seat four people.

Traversing the Mekong felt like going through a huge cauldron of chocolate drink. Its water is so brown and murky, you could hardly see anything underneath. An old lady, reed thin and fragile looking, was rowing our banca, and looking at her, we were left wondering whether we would be found in case our banca capsizes or if we jump overboard.

Such morbid thoughts were put to rest when we finally docked and boarded a bigger boat back to My Tho. And fresh coconuts, cold and sweet were waiting to quench our thirst.

After our Mekong experience, we were guests at a traditional Vietnamese wedding at Binh Quoi Village and feasted on a banquet of still more Vietnamese cuisine.

Other Places Of Interest 

Saigon was renamed Ho Chi Minh City in honor of its revered leader Ho Chi Minh who successfully led the nation against both France and the USA. His face is plastered all over Saigon, particularly in government offices, like a deity watching over his flock.

From attending a wedding the previous night, our visit to the Notre Dame Basilica the following day made us witness at least six more weddings and one baptismal rite. It seemed that the Vietnamese people were in a wedding mode. The Basilica is an impressive example of neo-Romanesque style architecture that attracts not just Catholics. The Central Post Office, a 19th century French colonial structure, is another prominent feature of Saigon.

A rather fascinating tourist spot is the Cu Chi Tunnels which is located a little further away from the main Ho Chi Minh City. This is where South Vietnamese Communists took refuge while they launched guerrilla attacks on US soldiers.

When in Saigon, you may also visit the HCMC General Library, Phuoc An Hoi Quan Pagoda, Zoo and Botanical Gardens, Central Post Office, Hotel Continental, Thien Hau Pagoda, City Hall, Museum of Ho Chi Minh City, Ton Duc Thang Museum, History Museum, Duc Minh Private Museum, Ho Chi Minh Museum, Art Museum, Vinh Nghiem temple, Bach Dang River, Quai, Giac Lam Pagoda, and the Mariamman Hindu Temple.

When in Vietnam, if you hear what sounds like “come on”, that is actually cam on, Vietnamese for thank you. And don’t forget to bring home Vietnam’s traditional conical hat called the non la.